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No.1
Date: 09/07/00 03:05:07 PM
It is only 18 days since I upload my home page.
I start to receive many E-mails from people who visited my home page.
Most of them are inquiry about systems.
Please note I'm not specialist of agriculture, just a hobbyist farmer.
I learned from many books and trying to implement here in Philippine.
I answered as much as possible, but I prefer to use Bulletin Board System because everyone see this BBS can share informations.
Let's start with this message.
following are from Mr. Navarro of Davao. I sent reply message but could not get through.
quote
I'm from Davao City. I started raising swine. I gota lot of problems on my piglets. I presume before that once it was being separated from their mother you don`t have to worry anymore. But as of today I already hired two (2) Veterenarian. You know i have only little profit on this business so if you have any information about or techniques perhaps that you can share to me, to us here, we would appreciate it very much and it although it can be paid in any form but it the happiness we may be felt can never be bought.
Thank you and more power.
Best regards,
Julito Navarro
unquote.
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Thank you for your E-mail.
I understand this business is quit difficult to earn.
If we rely on commercial feeds only, I wonder how people get money from this business.
With my way of hog raising, I don't have much problem during weaning. I keep piglet with mother for 45 days. So I don't feed like starters. While piglet stay with mother, they eat mother's hard feeds, that make piglet strong.
After separated from mother, I feeds grower and green grasses. I give green grasses to mother so piglet become used to eat.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.2
Here is another E-mail I couldn't send reply.
So far I download message at Internet Cafe, if no return address mentioned on message body, I can not find address, unless send reply right a way, especially in case of yahoo-mail or hotmail.
quote
Hello! I am just wondering if ur chiken tech will work on duck raising.
thanks,
atoie
unquote
I have many ducks prowling around my garden, but may be my chicken system is not work on duck raising.
One important factor of this system is chicken always scratch ground and mix soil, that accelerate fermentation of manure.
Fermented manure contain vitamins, minerals, amino acid, enzyme.
Thus become good feeds and make healthy chicken,
also you can save feeds.
Nishiki
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No.3
Date: 09/23/00 03:05:07 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: cost of pig pen, disadvantage
Here is questions by E-mail Which other people might interested.
I am particularly interested in the costs involved in setting up a pigpen
and in producing the lactobacilli. How do your hogs compare to the growth
rate of hogs raised the usual way. What are the disadvantes of raising hogs using your techniques?
The costs making pig pen are varied by the materials. Hardest part are collecting organic materials like rice husk, rice straw, any organic farm waist that very much different by your situations.
But generally speaking there are not much difference with ordinary pig pen which made of hollow blocks and coco-lumbers. Of couse much much cheaper than sophisticated piping with plastic draining board pig pen.
One advantage of this system is you don't need drainage system (i.e. septic tank). That minimize costs.
Lactobacilli are almost free, you need only some soybeans (mongo will do also) and milk to culture.
Growth rate is depend on how you feed them, usually just little bit slower than conventional way because pig practice (like digging) inside pigpen but they have tasty lean meat.
I don't see much disadvantages on my systems but It's need more space than conventional ways, especially for the sow, I put them on 4m by 4m pigpen.
Nishiki
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No.4
Date: 11/24/00 12:16:16 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: pig pens are already cemented !
Website: www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki~
This Q and A is transferred from my guest book.
quote
Thanks a lot for sharing your ideas with my countrymen.
I will certainly try your method and help others to adopt it also.
My pigpens are already cemented so I may have to feed them lactobacilli by making them in the method you describe.
How much do you think cud be fed to each pig?
Roy Reroma
unquote
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Thank you for visiting my home page.
I think if you mix lactovachilli direct to the feed that also effective.
Lacto vachilli eat mainly other bacteria's residues, work as cleaning bacteria, so once go into pigs intestine, they clean pigs intestine and help digestions.
If pig digest well, even feces become not much smells.
Foul smells are sign of bad digestions and you are loosing your feed cost.
Amount of lacto vachilli to give to pig can be very small, like one milliliter per head or just spray to pig pen and feeds, with 5 to 10% lacto vachilli water that suppress bad bacteria growth in pigpen and better than using chemical disinfectant.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.5
Date: 11/28/00 07:33:23 PM
Name: bin
Email: bin2k@hotmail.com
Subject: can u help me how?
hello Nish,
I read about your article on you hp, and im quite searching for a technology for ducks can u help me how to do a modern style in duck raising? I really appreciate what reply you will send it back to me
thanks a lot
more power
bin
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No.6
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: can u help me how?
Frankly speaking, I don't know any modern way of duck raising, My way is always more organic, more natural ways.
This is Bulletin Board, so anybody know about modern duck raising please write here.
My opinion on duck raising is on few articles before this bulletin board.
I'm keeping some ducks thinking to try "growing rice with ducks".
But so far, it is difficult to synchronize with hatching.
Because you should put 1 week duckling to 3-5 days after planting rice.
Duck are more sustainable to disease than other kind of fowls, so easier to raise, but water type duck wet floor, so spraying lacto bachilli to Floor reduce grow of bad bacteria and smells.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.7
Date: 01/10/01 10:42:17 PM
Name: Wawa G. Vergara
Email: wawaphil@yahoomail.com
Subject: Technology-sharing
Dear Mr. Kotaro,
I am with the government and I am committed to help our indigenous peoples uplift their living conditions.
I am writing to you because I am planning to introduce backyard poultry in one of the indigenous communties in Sarangani Province and I want to introduce a variety of range chicken. However, I need to know from the experiencies of those who have successfully implemented similar project to be able to assure feasibility of the same.
Upon opening your page, I realize that I may get important information from your experinces in poultry raising.
The information that you may share to us will surely help our people.
Thank you!
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No.8
Date: 01/22/01 02:58:51 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Starting poultry bussines
Here is another mail sender agree to transfar to BBS
Greetings Nishiki.
First of all, I really like your site. Thanks for all the info. I was wondering if you could give me some info on how to get into the poultry and egg business on a much larger scale like being a supplier for a chain of restaurants for example.
I have a few hectares of land in Bataan which I would like to utilize for this purpose.
I heard from a friend that this type of business can be a very lucrative one.
Thanks for all the info that you can supply me.
Emricfer@aol.com
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No.9
Date: 01/22/01 03:19:02 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Starting poultry bussines
Website: http;//www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki/
Thank you very much for visiting my home page and you wrote, you like!
Starting poultry is easier than piggery. You don't need sophisticated materials to build.
8m x 4m house accommodate 100 layers, you can connect side by side, so 1 hector land can have 100 sectors, make 10,000 chicken, start lay eggs after 5 to 6 month, if full operation with 70% laying ratio make 7,000 egg every day, and this system 4 worker can take care 10,000 chicken.
Looks lucrative? This is just computation. Don't trust!
Market price of egg is very cheep, and feed cost is high.
If anything goes wrong, you going to loose.
So start small till you get confidence of expansion.
Profit are depend on how much you can sell your egg.
Because this egg is not ordinary egg.
This egg from organically grown healthy chicken.
If you have any detailed questions, please write to Bulletin Board
on my home page. I'm happy to answer as far as I know.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.10
Date: 02/16/01 07:47:00 PM
Name: Dea Dejan
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: interested in your technology
Nishiki San,
I have e-mail to you in your e-mail address, pls. check it and I hope you will answer it
From: Dea
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No.11
Date: 02/17/01 04:15:56 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: interested in your technology
Hello.
I'm now in japan and can not read e-mail to philippine.
If you write question here, I can answer and also every one can share knowledge.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.12
Date: 02/21/01 02:04:48 PM
Name: Dea Dejan
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Re: Re: interested in your technology
Greetings Nishiki San,
I'm sorry i sent you e-mail instead because my letter is quite long. I read in you website the procedure in making pigpen and i understand it, but you did not mention if after the pigs were gone, do you have to throw the fillings in the pen, i mean the manures and the rice hull and the coconut husk. I can imagine it will be full of manure after several days and the pigs will be dirty. Besides, do ypu provide space for the pigs to roam around? Sorry if my questions are irelevant i am just imagining it compared to the usual pigpen in our place. I want to give it a try as i mentioned in my e-mail but i want to know better because my capital is at stake if i gone wrong.
Thank you for replying and i hope you will return back here in the Philippines so you can read my e-mail.
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No.13
Date: 02/22/01 10:55:12 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: interested in your technology
Hello.
Most of people think, if we do not take out pig's feces and urine from pigpen, it will overflow from pigpen and become kind of disasters.
On the contrary, my pigpen's floor is sinking, so I need to add materials sometime.It's been more than 4 years, I never take out anything from my pigpen except pigs.
Pigpen floor are with organic materials and 10% soil which will absorb liquid and help fermenting feces. Even you just leave their feces as it is,it will disappear in one or two days.
That is all the work of bacteria. Is'n it amazing?
All we need is help good bacteria to grow, keep soil moisture less 60% and mix.
My pig stay in pigpen all the time but they roaming inside pigpen already.
Kotaro Nishiki now in Tokyo
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No.14
Date: 02/23/01 06:10:43 PM
Name: Dea Dejan
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: interested in your technology
Nishiki San,
Thank you for your reply. Another thing I want to know, how will i know the bacteria are still alive, and if i make my own, can i check if i'm successful. I saw the pictures in your website, what happen when there arelots of rain or typhoon? Like last week, i heard from the news that Baybay, Leyte was the center of the typhoon and there is a ship thrown in the seashore of baybay, Leyte. Is it near your place? I hope your pigs are ok there.
What i mean in my question is that if it is not cemented and strong rains come, will it not overflow the pit inside? Just wondering. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Dea
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No.15
Date: 02/24/01 06:26:55 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: interested in your technology
Lacto bachilli are very strong bacteria so hardly fail to make.
If you made successfully, then smell acidic smell (there are many kind of lacto bachilli, smell different, some smell nice and some are not) and if you fail, become terrible smell like thing rotten (actually rotting).
Inside pigpen, if smell bad, means bad bacteria growing, that means something going wrong, so you have to adjust.
With this system, if you handle careful, you can make 100% odor free.
Better make pigpen right next to your house then you become more careful.
My pig are alright even with recent typhoon. According to my wife they even enjoying typhoon. Of course we have roof top on the pigpen, but side are all open, air circulation is very important to pig health. With good air, my pig become healthy and strong, so not affected even by typhoon.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.16
Date: 02/26/01 10:16:30 AM
Name: Dea Dejan
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Thank you
Thank you for your reply. It seems i became more interested to try it. I will keep you inform of the development, i am just raising money to build the housing first. i will keep on checking your bbs so i'll be updated. Thanks again.
DEa
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No.17
Date: 02/18/01 01:37:06 AM
Name: Gudy Lim
Email: limg@earthlink.net
Subject: Agribusiness in Philippines
Hello Kotaro-san,
You have a very informative webpage! I admire your entrepeneurship and dedication to farming/agri-business in PI. I am sure your webpage is an inspiration and information source for a lot of Filipino farmers. I had been fascinated about farming/agri-business since I was a child. Lately I became more serious about farming and I decided to start researching about farming in PI. I now reside in California, and I am planning to go back in 10 years to start farming in PI. I do not know anything about farming, so can you please give me advice on how to start my research. My plan is to start the farm now, so when I go back about 10 years from now, the farm is already partly established.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Gudy
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No.18
Date: 02/19/01 06:03:55 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Agribusiness in Philippines
Hello . Thank you for visiting my home page.
I'm not in position to advice you, to your big project like ten years. But I agree start early.
First we should secure land for farming, land price going up every days, most of land now become expensive than U.S.A.
Considering Peso against US dollar rate now, It might be a good timing for get land.
If you have land already, then common way is plant fruit trees which need not much care. If you come back after ten years, you already have incomes.
For the fruits trees, you should carefully select right variety and get from reliable sources, because its too late to regret after ten years!
Kotaro Nishiki now in Japan
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No.19
Date: 03/10/01 05:17:14 PM
Name: Rommel
Email: rlaconsay@hotmail.com
Subject: Thanks
Nishiki-san,
Arigato! Thanks for your reply to my e-mail. At last I know now what to look for.
From now on I'll post my questions here so that others may benefit as well.
Rommel
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No.20
Date: 03/14/01 12:48:25 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Visitors allowed?
It has been about six month since I open this home page.
I get many number of e-mail compare with access counter.
Most frequently asked question is whether visitor allowed in my place.
First of all, Visitors are welcomed in my place and I already have some Visitors, mostly people who read Manila Bulletin.
I had someone even from Manila
Seeing is believing, some visitor confessed me, he couldn’t believed this System until he really see this place. (may be until he smell this place.)
So seeing is very important but this place is very remote from anywhere.
35 km south of Ormoc city Leyte.
Continue to next.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.21
Date: 03/14/01 02:41:51 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Visitors allowed?
I had inquiry form who now working in Saudi Arabia and like to do piggery when he come back to Philippine. And want to visit my place when his vacation.
Its looks very hard to come here, so I reply him that we are in INTERNET AGE.
We can talk any time through Internet, if he have any problem I ask him to write
On Bulletin Board then I can answer as far as I know.
I myself don’t know anything about piggery, I just following books, I think youcan do this without seeing.
He reply to me instantly , Why Can't I.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.22
Date: 03/14/01 03:41:32 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Visitors allowed?
On many modern piggery, visitor are not welcomed because they put plenty of mony to clean piggery, people are carrier of many kind of disease for pig.
They trying to eliminate any kind of bacteria from pig pen which is impossible.
Bacteria are, in the air, inside people’s body, outside skin, every where.
And in nature, many bacteria are keeping balance each other, mostly good bacteria,
and few bad bacteria, sometimes balance incline to bad bacteria then diseases occurs.
But if you eliminate most of bacteria, there are the danger, bad bacteria flourish
explosively, because of no competing bacteria. Some times all pig dying in a few days.
That is the nightmare of hog raisers.
Our system’s approach is other way around, try to keep natural balance of bacteria.
Trying to keep good bacteria flourish which is less cost and effort.
So I can welcome visitors.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.23
Date: 03/24/01 12:40:45 PM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: swine raising
Hello to all, this is a new format for us to be discussing idea's in, so please be patient with me and my foolish questions. First of all, my wife who is a Filipina and I are in the process of drawing up plans to build a hog farm in the Philippines. We are looking to build it on Negros somewhere, where for sure we do not know for we are still lokking for land. I like the lifestyle there so much and we have the capital to do this now in the hopes that the farm will become supportive enough for our family to move there.
Can this style of hog raising work on a larger scale? I mean this style goes against everything that I know about hog raising here in the US. Here they tell you the hogs need to be on steel cages above concrete to keep pathogens at a low. You are saying that a pen with organic manner and an added bacterium will be better for the hogs. Here they would say that, that type of an environment would only grow more bacteria that would be bad for the pigs. I really like this idea if it works as good as it sounds so far. Does anyone know if you can feed the pigs the left over pulp from the sugar refiners (if they have any). Like I had said that I am new to this, so some of my questions may seem foolish. Please, if possible, e-mail us direct with any information that you can submit to us at gobps@hotmail.com about this style of hog raising. Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
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No.24
Date: 03/26/01 07:30:58 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: swine raising
Thank you for visiting my home page.
About cost of pig pen, please refer to article on this BBS also.
I have three 8mx4m pig pen and one 4mx2m pig pen.
4 years before one pig pen cost me about 20 thousand pesos.
So now it will cost 40 to 50 thousand pesos with very ruff estimate.
I don't have any particular type of pig, just local Pitren mix.
Actuary, I feel I need good sow. I once bought some piglet from agricultural college near by but that was not good.
We do need veterinarian but hard to get when necessary here.
Our pig are healthier than others but sometimes need veterinarian.
This type of system, we have large scale raiser in Japan and Korea. But they can sell pig higher than other pig because these meat are organic.
Here, you can find buyer very easily but problem is people don't care about organic or not.
Not all bacteria are pathogens, for easier understanding, I call good bacteria and bad bacteria. In natural environment good bacteria are dominant and bad bacteria grows only when environment become bad condition.
So we encourage good bacteria to grows.
Sugar cane left over pulp is called bagas.
about bagas continued to next article.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.25
Date: 03/27/01 06:10:59 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: swine raising
Negros is sugar cane country, so bagas should be abundant.
So far, new bagas are use for fuel and very old like 5 years old, called mud press are used for fertilizer for sugar cane.
For the fuel, need special boiler, and mud press is not good fertilizer, so most of bagas are just stack up.They will give us for free.
I'm trying to make fertilizer from bagas, like I'm making chicken feed from sawdust. So far result is not so good because bagas's fiber (lignin) are so stubborn. I hard someone found lignin cutting bacteria, but I don't know anybody success on commercial scale.
If you know how to make pig feeds from bagas, that will be break through on feed cost. If we rely on commercial feeds only, hard to get profit.
90 percent of hog raising cost is feeds.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.26
Date: 03/27/01 06:27:44 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: swine raising
I will look into it further here in the states and see what I can find out.
Thank you.
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No.27
Date: 03/24/01 01:10:40 PM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: No Subject
Dear Mr. Kotaro,
Thank you so much for your website. The information and the time that you devote to this is greatly appreciated by us and by many others.
I see that you welcome visitors, but you are in a remote area. how do you market your hogs or don't you? My wife and I would like to come and visit you some time and don't worry about you being remote. I am used to going to places that are hard to get to, it makes it more of an adventure.
What were the costs of one of your hog pens in today's peso value?
How many pens do you have and what types of pigs do you have or recommend? Do you need a veterinarian at all?
Thank you again.
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No.28
Date: 03/26/01 03:57:50 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: hoof and mouth
Dear Mr. Kotaro,
A good day to you!
I am wondering what your thoughts are about the lesser/greater likelihood that pigs raised in this type of an environment would be able to contract this dreaded disease. I would assume that the likelihood would be less, but they probably would still be supceptible to it though. If there was an outbreak somewhere in the Philippines or especially in Luzon/Leyte, would you vaccinate your swine against it or not?
Just something for you to think about. Thanking you in advance for your wisdom.
Ted & Liz
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No.29
Date: 03/26/01 10:07:25 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: costs vs styles
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
Thank you for your reply! Again I am thankful of your time.
What size of larger scale hog farms are those in Japan and Korea that you mentioned?
What type of hog raising in your mind, considering that the pigs will be sold in the Philippines is more profitable? The usual confinement type or the type that you are promoting, again considering that you cannot realize a higher price due to the fact on how they are raised and we are looking at a larger scale then what is typical their?
Thank you again,
ted & liza
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No.30
Date: 03/28/01 12:48:32 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: costs vs styles
In Japan certain group have 14, two thousand pig scale farms and in Korea have many two hundred pig scale farms.
I'm not sure about exact statistics, but more than 80% of pig production on Philippine are back yard hog raising.
If you see country side, you will see many family raise one or two pig on their back yard, and feed them mostly left over of their food or kitchen waste.
Their feed cost is very low but majority.
If you think about large scale, should consider your competitors.
I never said, hog raising here is profitable. Considering risk (its a live stock not industry productions) hog raising here in large scale is difficult business.
I don't promote system, I just try to let people know that there are alternate systems. If I promote, I like to promote backyard hog raising with kitchen waste, that profitable for sure, so I developed small type pig pen for Philippine with 4m x 2m that might fit to every one's backyard.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.31
Date: 03/28/01 09:17:53 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
We again thank you for your time in answering our questions.
I agree with what you have said as far as who your competitors are. In your opinion though, if you were going to raise pigs on a bigger scale in the Philippines (100+ sows) what system would you more than likely use. A typical confinement or a compost type style with Lacto bacilli?
Again, sorry for all the questions, but thank you still,
ted & liz
I thank you again for your help in this,
ted & liz
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No.32
Date: 03/30/01 06:58:00 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Even large scale piggery, of course I prefer this system.
Any large scale piggery on this system, should combination of other farming, like vegetable growing and rice field.
So you can give pig, vegetable waste and use rice straw, rice husk etc, and from the pig pen you can have fertilizer to field so that you can reduce use of chemical fertilizer.
Number of pig are limited mainly how much green grass you can collect.
As I mentioned before, demerit is need more space.
For instance 200+sow need about 2 hectors against half hector on confine system.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.33
Date: 03/30/01 10:43:37 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Thank you very much Mr. Nishiki, I am getting a lot of information from your bulletin board forum.
I don't understand something though, I read somewhere in your notes that you have never had to remove manure (pig waste) from the pens. In fact, I think you said that you have to keep adding compost and you never have had to remove any. Please, if you can, explain that part.
What, in your estimation would you say is needed per sow in terms of square meters for forage/roughage including her offspring as well? Was this included in your 200 sows needing 2 hectares for her roughage and her offspring?
Do you have a special type of grass/forage you raise for your pigs? If so what is it?
Could you use bagasse for some/most of the compost?
I hope that I am not asking to many questions, but I think/hope that most of these questions can be used by others in the Philippines or at least I hope they can anyway.
Thank you so much,
Ted & Liz
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No.34
Date: 03/31/01 06:57:42 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Even if you dig hole and put back soil again, you can not put back all soil, and if you make it surface flat, it will sink later.
Organic material contain more air so it going to sink and there are fetus and urine of pig added that accelerate fermentation.
Most of thing if fermented reduce its volume.
For instance if you stack 1 meter high of rice straw outside, it will almost vanish after one year. We making this process quicker.
And liquid absorbed by organic material with soil, that why we dig and stack 90 cm.
And also pig going to eat. fermented manure is no more just manure, its change to good nutritious food.
Fermented manure contain many kind of amino acid, minerals, vitamins and enzyme. That all produced by fungi, bacteria, east naturally.
You can experiment with few chicken or any bird.
Put material just 3 cm (better with rice husk, because rice husk have strong bacteria) and just keep moisture less than 60%, it will not stack up for many years and they will reduce volume. and no smell !.
About spacing, This is very rough estimate ,usually put 20 sow in one roof and 2, 8m x 4m pigpen for piglet. one building become 50m x 10m including roofing space. 50m x 10m x 10(number of building) = 5000 square meter.
Need spacing between building that makes almost one hector already.
You can have one hector plus space between buildings for vegetable or forage.
So far I don't give any particular forage, just weeds.
Forage are for the cattle, and some of then are very fibrous and hard, that kind you need to chop to small.
Bagas is not so suitable, so better keep less than 1/3 of flooring materials and add some rice bran to encourage fermentation.
Please feel free to ask any question, because your questions might be anybody's question.
I will answer as far as I know or think.
But please note, I'm not a specialist nor authorities.
As I said before, I just trying to let people know there are alternate way.
I'm not responsible what ever might happen.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.35
Date: 04/3/01 09:20:27 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Thanx for the info!
There is something that I don't understand though. The part, 20 sow one roof and 2, 8m x 4m pigpen for piglet. One building become 50m x 10m. 50m x 10m x 10 buildings = 5,000 square meters. Is this for how many sows on a continuous bases? Or maybe, an easier way is, about how many square meters per sow and her offspring per farrowing?
Also, could one use this system as far as confining the pigs go, but feed them a conventional type pig diet or at least, only feed them a limited amount of green forages? I mean, I know that one can do it, but what is your opinion on it? It would work well in getting rid of the waste/odor problem typically found on a pig farm and I would assume that the health of the pigs would be improved over a typical confinement system even if one did not feed green forages.
What do you think?
Don't worry about getting blamed if things don't work out from some one. I am thinking that your information will be appreciated by many very much!
Ted & Liz
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No.36
Date: 04/4/01 10:58:03 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
One sow need 4m x 4m= 16 square meters.
One piglet pen 4m x 8m= 32 square meters.
One building accommodate 20 sow with 2 piglet pen.
-50m-
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I sowI I I I I I I I I I I I |
I I I I I I I I I I Ipig Ipig I 10
--------------------------------------------------I letI letI m
I I I I I I I I I I I I I |
I I I I I I I I I I I I I
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10 building accommodate 200 sow.
Did we talk about 100 sow? in that case 5 building.
Sorry, may be I mixed up.
Above sketch is just general idea, usually make center fence removable then we can make any combinations.
The most important factor to get rid of odor/waste is flooring.
Without flooring of this system, it is very hard to eliminate.
But we can have some remedy with adapting some of this system.
Give forage is good idea that improve health of pig but you should start from piglet, ordinary grown pig can not digest hard forage, usually don't eat.
For the odor, I'm thinking three things add to feeds.
lacto vachili, charcoal vinegar and EM.
About charcoal vinegar explain in another section of this home page.
And EM is mixture of many kind of useful bacteria which is sold here.
These are reduce odor from fetus itself. Less smell fetus means good digestion and healthier pig.
Kotaro Nishiki
If you can't see sketch please change font to other than proportional
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No.37
Date: 04/4/01 01:14:51 PM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Thanks again Mr. Nishiki,
I must not have explained my question properly, but your answer raises another question from me.
The 4m x 4m pen is for the sow and her piglets until weaning. Then she is removed and the pen is made bigger for 20 piglets/feeders, or you can put a new sow in before farrowing, once she farrows, then she will stay with her piglets until they are weaned also?
The piglet pen is 4m x 8m and this can handle 20 piglets/feeders until they are big enough for slaughter?
The question that I asked, but did not explain well, is about how many square meters of land for forage do you need for one sow and her piglets per farrowing, please keep in mind though, the amount of ground needed has to take into account that the piglets will be getting bigger and eating more of course.
I am planning on using the compost pen style that you have laid out ( 90 centimeter pit ), but I may not be able to supplement the green forage like you recommend. I do not know if we will have enough land for the pens and forage both.
I am looking at starting out with 200 sows, but I would like to go to 400+ eventually.
Thank you.
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No.38
Date: 04/5/01 05:25:12 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: costs vs styles
English is not my mother tongue.
I'm sorry if I wrote wrong, and my reading skill may be poor.
In my case, once sow put to the pen, stays her whole life on same pen.
After weaning, I transfer piglet to piglet pen to be sold (dispersed).
There are two categories of hog raising. One is breeding and the other is fattening. We talked about sow, so I talked about breeding.
Our plans are not including fattening so far.
You will be wonder why different categories, hog raising is so hard, so people select whichever by their environment and their skills. Of course there are combination of breeding and fattening, but they are minor.
If we can give 1 kilo of grass to one sow daily is ideal, but practically hard.
Grass can not compensate feed, just supplement, but can reduce vitamin Additive and give fiber which is lucking on commercial feed.
I don't have figure, how many kilo of forage from 1 hector.
Cattle grower knows very well, so please check their site.
Grass need not be a any particular forage. Other land owner will appreciate if you cut their weeds.
200 sow scale piggery is quite big here.
I strongly recommend to start small until you get experiment, experience and confidence.
Any business here are very difficult.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.39
Date: 03/26/01 03:57:50 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: hoof and mouth
Dear Mr. Kotaro,
A good day to you!
I am wondering what your thoughts are about the lesser/greater likelihood that pigs raised in this type of an environment would be able to contract this dreaded disease. I would assume that the likelihood would be less, but they probably would still be supceptible to it though. If there was an outbreak somewhere in the Philippines or especially in Luzon/Leyte, would you vaccinate your swine against it or not?
Just something for you to think about. Thanking you in advance for your wisdom.
Ted & Liz
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No.40
Date: 03/27/01 06:26:02 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: break out
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
If you experinced a hoof & mouth or pseudurabies break out, what would you do with your pens if anything?
Again, thank you,
ted & liz
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No.41
Date: 03/28/01 12:50:55 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: break out
As I growing healthy pig, not likely infected.
But I don't think Philippine government have enough budget to check all pig. So I should follow government order.
The way of raising, I have nothing to add.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.42
Date: 03/28/01 09:06:30 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: break out
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
Thank you for your reply. The main thing I am wondering though, is if you had a outbreak yourself, what special things would you do to your pens, after you destroyed your pigs, so as you could raise them in the same pens again?
Would you wait a certain amount of time before putting pigs back in them again or would you remove all the compost and sterilize the hole in the ground, cement, the building and the rest of the related feeding/handling items before adding new compost and pigs again?
Sorry to keep bothering you, but I don't know where else to look for these answers.
Thank you again,
ted & liz
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No.43
Date: 03/29/01 10:39:33 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: break out
If virus eliminated, or immune, no need to change anything.
We can put new pig on same place and even you don't need to clean.
If we spray chemical disinfectant that will destroy systems.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.44
Date: 03/30/01 02:00:08 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
Again, thank you so much for your inputs. You have no idea on how much my wife and I appreciate your time.
Another question though, if you had an out-break, how do you know if the virus is eliminated or not? Would you wait 1 week or 2 or 3 weeks before adding pigs again. Does the virus have a certain amount of time that it is live and you would wait that long? Would the compost style of raising them break down the virus it self over a 1 or 2 or 3 week time frame? Would you vaccinate the new pigs before putting them back in the pens or at least at the same time you put them back in?
I am sorry if I keep asking so many questions. If my wife and I do this, we need to knew what are the solutions to potential problems and how to deal with them in this style of raising pigs. This system is the most attractive system to us so far, we just need to know it better.
Thank you,
Ted & Liz
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No.45
Date: 03/30/01 10:35:29 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
To know whether virus eliminated is very difficult question even for government authorities. If there are outbreak of this type of disease government is the one give all the instructions which we have to follow.
So regardless of style of raising, outcome is same.
I don't think authority can examine all pig, so they will judge area by area.
If own area announced infected, that is all. We should wait till government announce it's over.
This type of outbreak are beyond our control and big risk for hog raiser.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.46
Date: 04/26/01 02:12:50 PM
Name: Hi Theodore
Email: davidohc@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
Hi Ted and Liz
About 1 year ago, pigs in Malaysia had a terrible virus attacks which affected human beings - many people who were in direct contact (in fact, whole family) died in hospitals- literally it wipe out the entire pig farms in this affected province where everyone raise pigs commercially. The whole entire pig population was culled (put to death) and the area no one raised pig any more. I cannot remember the name of the disease but it was finally identified by the scientific laboratories in England.
david ong, singapore
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No.47
Date: 03/31/01 12:03:25 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
Thank you for your input Mr. Nishiki.
I will ask some swine experts here in the US to see if they can shed some light on this dreaded disease and how to handle it in a pasture and a compost style of raising pigs. I will forword any and all information that they will pass on to me. I am hoping that this could help some pig raisers in the Philippines if they ever have the unfortunate luck to have this terrible scourge.
Thank you,
Ted & Liz
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No.48
Date: 03/31/01 07:23:38 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
I have found a very good website at www.thepigsite.com There it said that 6 weeks of time would have to pass before putting pigs back in a pasture environment.
Thank you for your time in these matters!
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No.49
Date: 03/31/01 10:09:32 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: break out
Thank you for your information.
This is a thing I want to do this here,
"sharing information".
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.50
Date: 03/30/01 07:05:52 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: piglets
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
I must tell you again on how much I appreciate your willingness to do this for those of us who want to do things more in balance with nature and still make a little money.
I think I read some where in your information that you can keep up to 6 sows per 4x4 meter pen? When she farrows, you then give her the pen all to her self and her piglets? What do you use to keep the sow from laying on the piglets and do you use a light to keep them warm away from the sow? I also read that you keep the piglets with the sow for 45 days, have you tried to wean them sooner than that? Here in the US they try to wean them between 16 and 21 days as to get more piglets per sow per year.
Do you have a web page or e-mail for those other large piggeries in Korea and/or Japan?
Thank you so very much,
Ted & Liz
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No.51
Date: 03/30/01 11:57:56 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: piglets
I grow 6 sow in 8m x 4m pen before first delivery, and transfer to 4m x 4m farrowing pen each. I think I better have some warming system for piglet, but I don't have electric on my pig pen, though I didn’t have much trouble with that. May be Philippine is hot enough.
If you wean earlier feed cost become expensive and you need intensive care for piglet.
During 45 days, piglet use to eat mother feed, so after 45 days you can just start feeding ordinary feed.
I try to grow pig with not much care. Of course you can wean earlier.
I know one webpage of certain group but that is in Japanese.
http://www.yamagishi.or.jp/nogyo/rakuno-f.html
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.52
Date: 03/31/01 12:29:16 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: piglets
Thank you for your reply!
Do you lose any/many piglets from the sow laying on them? In an confinement system as you know, the sow is confined so as she cannot lay on them.
When I was a young boy our neighbor raised pigs in a pasture/confinement system. When a sow farrowed, he would put a tall board in the corner of the pen with a light in it. The board was tall enough so the sow could not go over it, but the board was also up from the ground so that only the piglets could get under it to the light to keep warm. In this way, they would not sleep next to the sow to keep warm so as not to get laid on.
What is your surviving piglets to weaning per sow?
Thank you.
Ted & Liz
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No.53
Date: 03/31/01 10:05:18 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: piglets
I did lost few piglet with mother laying on.
That was happened some particular mother who was not clever.
Most mother pig are clever enough to avoid laying on.
Our pig pen for mother is large, so piglet have place to evacuate.
First one of two day, we need to careful, after that no problem.
If pig pen is smaller like local 2m x 1.5m, become difficult.
Average 11 piglet born and 10 survived.
Last week, one sow had 15 piglet but now 12 survived.
That sow have 12 breast.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.54
Date: 03/31/01 01:13:15 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: questions
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
I sure hope that I am not bothering you to much by all my questions. This is such a good forum and I hope that I am contributing to it.
Thank you,
Ted & Liz
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No.55
Date: 03/31/01 10:40:17 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: questions
I will repeat my writing before.
Please feel free to ask any questions, because your questions might be
anybody's question.
I will answer as far as I know or think.
But please note, I'm not a specialist nor authorities.
As I said before, I just trying to let people know there are alternate ways.
I'm not responsible what ever might happen.
Kotaro Nishiki
There are so many thing about agriculture, it is impossible to write every thing on home page.
So, I have a ambition to make this Bulletin Board as main page of my home page. So thank you for your cooperation.
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No.56
Date: 04/6/01 09:06:26 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: costs vs styles
Please don't worry about your english, I am sure that your english is better than my Japanese (i don't speak any) and you probably speak some of your wife's tongue also. So, your doing better than me!
We are planning on farrowing all sows and raising most if not all of the feeders/fatteners. In this way we hope to make a profit at both ends or do you feel that only fattening is more profitable over just selling the piglets?
If I read in your notes somewhere correctly, you had said that 20 feeders/fatteners could fit in one 4m x 8m pen or was it 4m x 12m pen. Is this the maximum size needed when they reach 95 kilos? The 20 feeders/fatteners would stay in the same pen all through out there fattening or would you increase there pen size over time or would you switch them to a larger pen as they grew larger?
What was your thoughts on using this system, but not feeding any grass or very little? Do you think that it still is very advantageous over a typical confinement system?
You mentioned something about lacto vachili, what is it? What is the cost of EM and how much do you need to use per pig/pen?
I agree on starting out smaller and growing as we gain more experience, thank you.
Thanx again for your inputs,
Ted & Liz
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No.57
Date: 04/6/01 10:42:58 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: costs vs styles
Breeding and fattening, if you start small scale, then you better experience both, and decide whichever or both.
Profit depend on your environment.
For instance, if 200 sow breeding, you need marketing for piglet, if just fattening, it is easier to sell.
8m x 4m pig pen can accomodate 20 pig all their life, just become very busy mixing floor, 5th and 6th month.
Feeding little grass is better than nothing, but if you apply total system, result is dramatical.
Lacto bachilli is very popular here because of Yakult drink, how to make is in my home page. It's a very strong bacteria so very easy to make by yourself and cost very little.
EM cost about 600-800 pesos per litter, mix 1 cc EM with feed per sow.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.58
Date: 04/7/01 12:50:34 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: costs vs styles
What do you mean by the 5th and 6th month you become very busy mixing pen, don't the pigs mix it themselves? Don't you only have to add organic matter?
Thank you.
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No.59
Date: 04/12/01 10:12:37 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Subject: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
You should mix floor every day.
Most of pig urine particular place(cr).
You mix wet part with dry part.
If become too wed, then you add materials Here in philippine, pig dos'nt work(dig) much and mostly sleeping, because of heat.
Kotaro Nishiki
I'm in La union now.
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No.60
Date: 04/12/01 11:17:27 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Thanx again Kotaro, I really appreciate it.
Are you traveling with your family? If you are, good for you. Would that area be good for a piggery?
I know that the time would vary, but how much mixing time would there be for a pen of 20-30 fatteners/feeders per worker per pen?
In your best guess, how much total material would a pen of fatteners/feeders need for their time in the pen?
Talk to you later,
Ted & Liz
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No.61
Date: 04/13/01 04:26:13 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: costs vs styles
If you mix every day then just 5 minuits.
If you leave 5 days without mix then take 1 hour.
This type of biggery can be anywhere.
Preferlably with cheep source of feeds like restaurant waist,beer waist.
Beer waist have full of nuetrient, I wish I have one.
Kotaro Nishiki
Good things with BBS is, I can send message from anywhere.
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No.62
Date: 04/13/01 12:32:01 PM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Yes, I agree that this format is a very nice set-up. I am really glad that I found your web-site. Thank you for being so dedicated in your ideals.
I am wondering though, about how much organic matter would it take (kilos) to raise one set of 20-30 fatteners/feeders to market weight? I am trying to figure out how much organic/compost that it will take to run our piggery. I am thinking that if our plan for a big piggery is to come true, than we may need to seriously look at where we are to locate. We are planning on at least 200 sows and we will increase each year. If we need so much compost/organic matter for this size piggery. Can we be to big for our supply? Or, do you reccomend a good area?
Thank you so much,
Ted & Liz
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No.63
Date: 04/13/01 08:52:21 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
I have no idea how much kilos.
Rice husk and rice straw are only two thing you can get free of charge or minimal cost (I saw near Manila area paying 1 peso per 1 bag of rice husk) every where in Philippine.
May be you can not build pigpen in one time, but even if you sweep out all rice husk, rice straw in your area, still you can wait next harvest which will be 4 month later.
Main material of my pig pen are rice straw, rice husk and choped banana trunks.
Better mix as much kind of materials available.
You can fined other materials depened on your locality.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.64
Date: 04/14/01 06:25:18 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Thank you again,
If not known how many kilos, then approximate how many bags of rice hulls, straw, bananna trunks would you say?
In your opinion what is the most important part of the compost sysytem, grass feeding, confined to compoast or lacto bachlli?
If you were to use this system combined with a typical confinement system, how would you do it? Raise sows with piglets until weaning on compost or raise fatteners/feeders on compost system? What would be best in your opinion?
The reason for asking is we may not be able to use this sysytem 100% do to the amount of compost it may need to keep all of the pens of the sows and the feeders at the right moisture and depth. I am worried more about the amount needed through out the year for all the pens, not at the start up time for we would start with one pen and then through out the year increase the number of pens. I realize that to start, the pens will require a lot do to the size and depth of the hole to be filled. The amount that concerns me is the number of bags it would take for one pen of 20-30 feeders in the 5-6th month, for we will have to multiply it by the number of pens we have.
Please add anything to this idea that you can.
Thank you again and have a Happy Easter celebration.
Ted & Liz
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No.65
Date: 04/14/01 11:21:50 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: costs vs styles
8M x 4M x 0.9m =28.8 cubic meter minus 10% soil =25.42 cubic meter.
let say one bag can 0.01 cubic meter =2542 bags This going to compressed, let say to 1/3 =7626 bags.
This calculation don't have much meanings, I'm not sure how much we can put in one bag, and how much compressed, and depend on materials.
If rice husk or rice straw, one bag is only few kilos.
Key to this system is dirt floor(soil and organic materials).
Grass is just for to make healthy pig, and lacto bacilli is help to grow good bacteria on the floor and pig intestine.
If good bacteria flourish on floor, we don't need lacto bacilli, because lacto bacilli are already there.
I think better start grow piglet for sow first and going to breeding.
Pig really adapt to this system are from second generation, because for the first generation, we don't know how they grow up.
Making pigpen is lot of work, but once made, you can use thisat least for more than ten years, and doesn't cost much.
If you use machine like truck and backhoe, it is not so difficult.
If you start small, then you can make both type of pigpen together.
You can compare merit and demerit.
Thank you. I'm enjoying Easter here in La Union. I'll leaving here tomorrow for 32 hours bus trip!! to Leyte.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.66
Date: 04/15/01 05:21:29 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: costs vs styles
Do you know about how many bags per day for a pen of 20-30 fatteners in the 5-6th month? Also, about how many bags would be needed for the entire 5-6 months of the 20-30 piglets that grow to slaughter weight? Approximately.
We are going the the Rocky Mountains in Colorado for Easter. We are going to stay at a motel and drive up Pikes peak tomorrow. I am glad you are enjoying Easter with your family.
It has also been a pleasure to get to know you!
Take care,
Ted & Liz
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No.67
Date: 04/22/01 01:44:34 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: costs vs styles
It is not necessary to add every day, usually we add when one batch sold and taken out. When pig pen is new, one batch make sink floor about 15 cm.
We were planing to go Bagio while in La Union, but gave up because of holly week traffic, traffic here are worsening.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.68
Date: 04/23/01 12:18:45 AM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: life
I see you must have survived the 32-hour bus ride! I know what that feels like, ouch.
My wife and I want to take the time to thank you for all the time that you have put in to answering our questions. You have taken your personal time to do something that pays you back nothing (financially anyway), but it shows just how good some people are!
My wife and I drove up to Baguio in August of 99, it was a really nice time. We only had a night to spend, but the drive was really nice. We wanted to go to Banaue rice terraces, but we were told the drive was 8 to 9 hours and we didn't have the time.
My wife and I are planning on coming down to the Philippines this coming August. If possible, we would really like to spend some time with you and your family. Look at your pens at depth and tying any lose ends together. Please let us know if you are interested.
I think I read some where in your notes that you send out your piglets after weaning to other people to raise and then when sold, you divide the proceeds by half? At what weight do you send out the piglets to other people? My wife is concerned that if we were to do this, we would have too many people not paying us, or coming up with excuses like the pig died, or it was stolen. Any excuse that they could come up with. Have you had any problems in the people not paying you or saying the pig was lost or something?
Take care,
Ted & Liz
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No.69
Date: 04/25/01 12:09:42 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: disperse program
Hello. I'm sure you enjoyed your trip to Rocky Mountain.
My hip still have a ache, Our 3years daughter stick to us and always sit on our lap.
About dispersal program. This is not for profit, kind of livelihood program.
I certainly loosing money with this, but that not because I've been cheating.
My wife handling who to disperse, she choose trusted people. Most of people (poor) around here are very honest.
Problems are, I disperse piglet only to poor people, there pigpen conditions are terrible and some times no pig pen at all. So piglet easier to die, If piglet dead, I get nothing. I should give them a my style pigpen but that too much for me. Still sometimes I offer to make my style pig pen, but they don't have land to build, because there land is somebody else's.
Sometimes I told them, better without pigpen than confine to no good condition, because without pig pen piglet can enjoy digging ground and can have supply of minerals.
People who's piglet dead, feel obligated and reluctant to have another piglet.
Thus my dispersal program now shrinking.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.70
Date: 04/26/01 01:35:16 PM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: disperse program
Yes we did have a good time, thank you. I can't imagine how a bus ride that long with a child would be like, sounds like your a patiant papa, good for you! I have a total of four kids, with the youngest being 9 months and the oldest is 12 yrs.
Your program sounds like it is not doing so well, is there any way to help them raise the pigs, but still be very cost effective on your part? Education maybe? Would it be possible for one toraise a pig by tying a string to one of its legs, so as it did not wonder off, but in this way you would not need a pen?
I think that your pens are 4 meters wide, could they be 5 or even 6 meters wide to make better use of your area? Also, what is the slope on the roof of your pens. I am trying to make a materials list and I need to know some of this to make it as accurate as possible.
Thank you and talk to you later,
Ted & Liz
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No.71
Date: 04/27/01 05:21:50 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: disperse program
Sometimes I think I'm a masochist, but every body doing here and can not escape.
>in this way you would not need a pen?
That was part of my thinking, also avoid marketing for piglet and high commercial feed cost for fattening.
Unit of pig pen are 8mx4m for general use and 4mx4m fo sow.
These are minimum space, you can make bigger if you have a space.
Slope on the roof, please guess from picture on home page, here rain fall sometime very heavy, so better have steep roof, but need roof top open for air circulation.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.72
Date: 04/30/01 01:18:32 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: disperse program
Don't take it to hard, I think that all people take a little advantage of something once in a while, but with various degrees and forms. One just has to remember that what you are doing is noble and good!
Do you think though that a pig could be tied with a rope to its leg, so as it could not escape, but be allowed to roam a little?
So, there is no problem making the building 6 to 8 meters wide, and then dividing the pens down the middle? Then the pens would only be 3 to 4 meters wide.
You did not answer my question on if it was okay if my wife and I were to visit you and your family this next August or September?
Thank you again,
Ted & Liz
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No.73
Date: 05/1/01 04:41:32 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: disperse program
I always talk to people that tied with loop and place it on the ground is better than keep in small pen.
But people already have pig pen don't like to do that, that the way for poorest people, and if pig escape, they can run very fast than we think.
For fattening pig pen can any size, but for sow need 4m by 4m.
I have one 2m by 4m pigpen for local model, and usually keep 4 fattening pig.
I also have one 3m by 4m pig pen for sow, but that dose not work good, there have danger that sow crush on piglet, so I don't use that pen for sow.
As I mentioned column below (now become far below), visitors are welcomed.
Will you tell me your exact schedule as soon as fixed. I will be in Japan 3 weeks during that period. May be I can adjust my schedule
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.74
Date: 04/24/01 07:18:22 PM
Name: Dea Dejan
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Korean style of farming
Greetings, Nishiki San!
Welcome back to the Philippines. It is so hot in here now, isn't it? I may not be participating in your bulletin board but i always visit it. Mr. Dunham have all the question which is also in my mind so i just read it.
One time, i go to a nearby KABUHAYAN Foundation office here in our town
from hearsay that they are offering livelihood project for the residents
here. Upon conversation with the founder of it, i shared what i've learned
from your homepage and to my surprise they have been practicing it for
several months now. They even have big projects from nearby barangays as
prototype and one of it is near my place. They said they are adopting the
Korean style of farming but as we go on conversing, i suspect they are
combining your idea with the Korean idea. They are concentrating on poultry
than piggery and they are also having organic farming i think in Tagaytay.
They have members and they are in full force on teaching and training people
the technology. They even formulate "probiotics" selling it at
Php50.00 per liter. I ask them if it is lactobacilli but they say it is
just as good as lactobacilli. They are good friends of Zac Sarian which
feature you in his newspaper.
I have no bad intention for saying this to you. I just want you to know that your way of farming is accepted here in the Phils. I just don't know if it is really from you although the system is really the same. At least, i can now see the real building and situation even without going to your place which is very far from mine.
I will update you of the development here when i have time to check with them.
Bye for now...
Dea )
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No.75
Date: 04/25/01 12:11:26 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Korean style farming
Hello.
Of course this bulletin board is for evry one. Please write anything you like.
About Korean style farming, I'm grad to hear they comming to Phillipine.
Original idea of Korean style farming found around 1950 by Mr Yamagishi in Japan.
Mr chou who is Korean learn from him, and back to Korea and develope his own way mostly practiced in Japan. They form big group in Korea now.
In Japan, decendant of Mr yamagishi form group also(Yamagishi-kai), but they think they can adapt this system to human, and now a day there group is considered as one of cult group, there farming are very successful, poultry to cattle.
But people in Japan hasitate to adopt this system because this idea from cult group, even though nothing wrong with farming idea.
What I adopting here is easiest part of essence of Yamagishi and other tradditional idea in Japan. And also permaculture which found in Australia.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.76
Date: 05/18/01 05:51:22 PM
Name: Berni Belen
Email: ocean@compass.com.ph
Subject: good day!
good day kotaro! i am happy to know that someone like you is interested in putting up a poultry in the Philippines. U know, my boss is putting up a business also regarding poultry but with a US technology. he is leaving for the states next week. can u give me advises about how you do it here? we are open to all form of technology. how can my boss meet u?
thanks & more power!!!
Berni
OCEAN DOUBLE HULL CARRIERS, INC
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No.77
Date: 05/20/01 02:31:12 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: goog day!
Hello.
Basically, I don't like to confine any animal to small space.
I respect animals right??? At least animal should be happy till they used.
If we make them happy then they can supply us healthy foods.
My poultry so far are not commercial base, mainly home consumption, I only
selling excess eggs.
There are two kind of poultry which are grower(broiler) and layer( for the egg
production). My system may not profitable with grower because local poultry's
density of chicken are huge, I'm only hoping with layer.
I'm not familiar with USA type poultry. Will you tell me which type of
poultry is yours? And how different from local type of poultry.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.78
Date: 05/31/01 01:07:07 PM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Interesting Business
I am very happy to know that foreigners like you come to Philippines for investment. I am presently working as an OCW here in Saudi Arabia but happens to have a 1/2 hectare of vacant farm lot in the Philippines. I'd like to get an estimate how much it costs to raise a pig from birth till its ready for sale (3 months old?). I am totally ignorant about this business but this seems to be an affordable one and ideal for my barren piece of land. Perhaps, if it is not too much to ask, you could also give me some rough cost estimates about raising piglets. Never mind pigpen costings, (I can estimate that on my own).
Thank you,
Gener Alcoreza
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No.79
Date: 06/2/01 06:24:35 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Interesting Business
May be I'm not right person to answer this question because many institute
here are studying on that. I myself don't calculate precisely.
This is very rough estimate.
Decent piglet cost about 1,200 to 1,500 pesos in my place.
You can get unknown kind of piglet from market about 700 pesos up.
Because it is so cheep, it is worth to go in to venture if you can select right
piglet.
I did that before but end up with get many kind of disease on my pig pen.
We grow about 6 month for selling. Pig become 80 to 100kgs.
People here sell pig at weight of 60 to 70Kgs in 5 month, after 5 month
pig grow faster but eat big amount of feed, I guess people try to save
their feed cost.
Feed cost during 6 month is about 2,000 pesos. If you sell 80kgs pig
at price of 4,500 (4,500-1,200+2,000), markup will be 1,300 pesos per pig
excluding labor and miscellaneous cost.
If market is near, you might sell more higher price.
Markup will be more or less depend on conditions, as I always saying,
don't trust just calculations, this is a live stock business, not like
making machines.
Kotaro Nishiki
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Thank you for the reply.
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No.80
Date: 06/10/01 02:59:29 PM
Name: Bryan Uy
Email: bravy_uy@yahoo.com
Subject: Site Visitation, etc...
Hello Mr. Kotaro!
I'm Bryan Uy from Manila. My family is interested in putting up a livestock business at our hometown in Ilocos Norte. Although my relatives are on the farm business, my direct family members are quite new in this. When we browsed through the internet looking for tips on how to raise healthy pigs (as well as construction, feeding, etc), we saw your homepage. It got my attention right away since you mentioned that your pens don't emit foul smell and would only require less labor since there would be no cleaning. I'm an environmental engineer that's why I was so glad someone is trying to help alleviate the cause of this very polluting business (pig farming) in the Philippines. In fact, my professor and I once assisted some piggeries in the south of Manila because their wastewater treatment systems are just getting too much of the organic and foul-smelling wastes. Most of the times, they fail to meet regulatory standards set by our government.
To show to you that we are serious about following your system, we are already preparing the lactobacilli even as I am writing you this letter. We have several querries that we would like to ask from you including the construction and preparation of the "dirt" flooring. Hope I'm not asking too much of your time. Here are some of them:
1. Do we have to make an excavation of the whole area inside the pig pen or should it just be a portion of it. On a 4m x 8m pen, what should be the area of the excavation containing the rice hulls, etc.
2. How do you give the hog rations ( putting it directly on the "dirt" floor or on a feeds trough)?
3. Should the solid wastes be collected out of the pens or just left there to be re-digested by the pigs?
4. Regarding the moisture content of the soil, what is the typical range (60% plus/minus). Do you maintain it by visual observation or by a scientific method?
5. Also, I would like to actually see your system. Do you know of someone who has appied your system here in Luzon, who I can meet?
Thank you very much and I apologize for the very lengthy e-mail. Hope you won't have a hard time getting into the internet this time.
Regards and more power!
Bryan Uy
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No.81
Date: 06/10/01 03:15:11 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Site Visitation, etc...
Hello. Here are answer to your questions.
1. Do we have to make an excavation of the whole area inside the pig pen or should it just be a portion of it. On a 4m x 8m pen, what should be the area of the excavation containing the rice hulls, etc.
As shown on animation, excavation should whole area inside pig pen.
2. How do you give the hog rations ( putting it directly on the "dirt" floor or on a feeds trough)?
It can be directly to the floor but it will become too messy so I'm using
feed trough.
3. Should the solid wastes be collected out of the pens or just left there to be re-digested by the pigs?
You need not bring out anything from the pen, Better mix with soil and make
fermented inside pen. If you keep soil moisture right, it will automatically
fermented.
4. Regarding the moisture content of the soil, what is the typical range (60% plus/minus). Do you maintain it by visual observation or by a scientific method?
Better 60% or minus. If moisture exceed 60%, bad bacteria start to grow.
Scientific method are troublesome, usually observation only. Easy way to
determine moisture, get handful of soil and grip on palm then open. if a clod
has cracks,it is too dry, if you touch a clod then have cracks, that has right
moisture, and a clod still sticked together then too wet.
5. Also, I would like to actually see your system. Do you know of someone who has appied your system here in Luzon, who I can meet?
Sorry I don't know any body practicing this system in Luzon.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.82
Date: 06/10/01 10:11:12 PM
Name: Bryan Uy
Email: bravy_uy@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Site Visitation, etc...
Thank You very much for the very helpful information.
Bryan Uy
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No.83
Date: 06/22/01 04:04:49 AM
Name: Samuel
Email: kangkong_lee@hotmail.com
Subject: PigPen
Hello Nishiki San,
I read in your website the procedure in making pigpen and I
understand it, but you did not mention if you give a bath to pigs or not, I hope you can give me an answer to my very simple question. Actually I don't have any idea on this field but when
I found your website, I'm very interested to learn and planning to built a Pigpen as one of my project.
Best Regards to you Nishiki San
and more power.
Samuel
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No.84
Date: 06/24/01 01:25:56 AM
Name: Samuel
Email:
Subject: Re: PigPen
Nishiki San,
Please, ignore my question I already understand it and clear when
I check in manila bulletin news paper under your homepage. Thanks and more power.
Sam
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No.85
Date: 06/29/01 12:22:34 AM
Name: Pedro
Email:
Subject: Pigpen
Nishiki San,
1) How do you prepared those rice straw,coconut husk or any organic farm waist for pigpen floor? ( Cut in small pieces or what )
2) What kind of grass that can be feed to pigs? ( can you elaborate more in details or give name some of them )
Thank you very very much and more power to you.
Pedro
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No.86
Date: 06/29/01 10:32:58 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Pigpen
Hello. Pedro san.
Cutting rice straw are troublesome so I just spray to pig pen.
In case of banana trunks need chopping for easier fermentation.
Any materials which melt to soil can put to pig pen as is.
Grass can be any kind, we are giving just a weed around pigpen,
but don't chop it too small or mix with feeds.
In case of any poisonous grass contained, we need let pig to select.
So just throw in to pig pen.
I forget name of the weed which came outside Philippine and now
spread out all over Philippine, kind of vine.(I heard somebody called
Imelda grass?). That weed is now major problem and can not feed to pig.
Kotaro Nishiki now in Tokyo
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No.87
Date: 06/30/01 12:00:22 AM
Name: Pedro
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: EM
Nishiki San,
Thank you very and more power to you.
Pedro
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No.88
Date: 06/30/01 01:43:22 AM
Name: Samuel
Email:
Subject: View
Nishiki San,
In pig pen designed you mention,"Put two layers or more hollow blocks underground and one or two layer above the ground."
Meaning, the two layer or more hollow blocks underground are after
3 feet flooring? I just want to clear it in my view.Thanks.
Samuel
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No.89
Date: 07/1/01 02:43:08 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: View
The way I wrote was not clear. As shown on simple animation,
two layer or more under ground means, two layer from the ground level.
Prevent from pig to escape, they have strong nose and easily dig tunnel.
One layer above the ground is for stop outside water come in to pigpen.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.90
Date: 07/2/01 01:05:52 AM
Name: theodore. sr & liza dunham
Email: gobps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: View
Dear Samuel,
In our plans for our pig pens, we are planning on having a total of 5 feet of cement (hollow) blocks. 2 feet below ground level, and 3 feet above ground level. Then we planned on using some of the dirt that we removed from the pit, to slope the sides away from the cement (hollow) blocks/pig pen to keep the rain water away from the pen, which would help keep the area araound the pig pen dry. Any water puddles would be about five feet away from the pens. We would we would add about 1 foot of dirt for sloping, and this would leave about 2 feet of cement (hollow) blocks above ground level. The five feet of cement (hollow) blocks allows you 3 feet for the compost, and 2 feet for the pig pen sides.
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Ted & Liz Dunham
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No.91
Date: 07/5/01 12:54:51 AM
Name: Samuel
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Re: View
Nishiki San, Ted & Liz Dunham,
Thank you very very much and God bless you always.
Best Regards,
Samuel
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No.92
Date: 08/15/01 06:40:52 PM
Name: simon
Email: lubihan@aol.com
Subject: gipatay
Hi Nishiki San.
Genki des?
I was just wondering what method you use to slaughter your pigs. The local one (hogtide with a bamboo forced down the mouth then the throat slit). Or do you simply prefer to shoot them on the top of the head?
I consider the latter method to be less traumatic to the animal but then they obviously don't bleed out as well. Perhaps you have some ingenious, cruelty free, way.
Domo,
Simon.
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No.93
Date: 08/19/01 02:51:14 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: gipatay
UUU--PS!
I don't have any idea how to slaughter pig. I should confessed myself, I am trying not to see them.
I leave it to local way, it is easiest way to bleed.
Shoot them in pigpen are illegal?
Like in Japan, you need special permission to slaughter pig, cow yourself, usually bring to certified slaughters house
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.94
Date: 08/18/01 07:14:02 PM
Name: Pat
Email: prealizan@hotmail.com
Subject: poultry
I'm not specialist for hog raising and my way is different from others.
My answer will not apply to common way.
Usually, like in Japan, harvest target is six month and weigh about 100kgs.
but my area people usually grow up to 60 to 80 kgs.
I don't use starter or booster, just grower, so my system can not apply to
usual way of raising.
Sorry. My answer will not usefull to you.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.95
Date: 09/20/01 11:27:39 PM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: feeding program
Can you share with me your way of feeding your pigs. I know it would be a great help for me coz i'm new to this business.
It would be my great pleasure to know your techniques in this business.
Can you share also to me, your way in making pig pen.
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No.96
Date: 09/22/01 11:07:47 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: feeding program
I don't have any particular feeding program because in our system, pig eat soil and green grasses, so I don't care much about quality of feeds.
I just supply cheapest available feeds.
If you follow my feeding program, you need to follow all the system on this home page.
How to make pig pen etc. are written on this home page and more detail is on this Bulletin Board System also.
If you have anything not clear after you read all the home page and BBS, please feel free to ask on this BBS.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.97
Date: 10/16/01 11:25:35 AM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: No Subject
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
I hope that you are in good health! It has been awhile since we last spoke. Our plans on coming there were changed due to the problems there and here. However, our piggery is going ahead with the partnership of my wife's cousin and ourselves.
The reason for this posting besides on hoping things are well for you. We are wondering if our partner can come to your piggery and study your methods for a short period of time? Is there a place to stay in near by? We would even be willing to pay you for your time or we could offer his free labor in exchange for your wisdom.
Please consider these things, they would really be beneficial to or piggery and extending your way of raising hogs in the Philippines.
My wife and I would really like to visit you when we are able to visit there again. Hopefully this winter; it's cold here and it would feel good to go somewhere warm. I hope that the situation with the terrorists will be somewhat resolved by than.
Thank you for all your time, and considerations.
Keep up the good works that you are doing,
Ted & Liz Dunham
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No.98
Date: 10/16/01 09:24:04 PM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: sorry, forgot to post our name with our question
Mr. Nishiki,
Sorry, I forgot to put our name on our last message. Just wanted to let ya know that the posting above this one is from us.
Thanx again,
Ted & Liz Dunahm
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No.99
Date: 10/18/01 11:11:53 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: sorry, forgot to post our name with our question
Hello.
It's been a almost 6 month since we exchange our last messages.
If your partner agree to stay with our Philipino stuff then we have enough
space to stay. So no need to worry about money.
I will send my address and phone number in separate e-mail.
Hoping to see you soon.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.100
Date: 10/21/01 11:44:09 PM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: sorry, forgot to post our name with our question
Good day!,
Yes it has been a while since we last spoke. I have been very busy this summer here. I also thought to let others post some messages to you. I thought that I was taking up most of your time and others didn't have as much of an opportunity to post. Hopefully though, they were able have many of there questions answered by my questions and your replies.
My wife and I are planning on traveling to the islands this winter if she doesn't enroll back in college to finish her pre-law degree.
I might be traveling to your homeland this next month, by chance you wouldn't be travel back to your homeland as well? My reason for asking is if you were, maybe we could meet and tour the large piggery there to see what we could learn from it. Please let me know.
Thank you for all of your time and help,
T. Dunham
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No.101
Date: 10/23/01 10:20:50 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: sorry, forgot to post our name with our question
I will be out of philippine from December 6 to December 24.
Other period I'll be here in Leyte.
Please inform me as soon as your schedule finalized.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.102
Date: 10/21/01 04:52:17 PM
Name: Kirk Morales
Email: amorales_jr@yahoo.com
Subject: Self Introduction
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
Hope everything is doing great for you...
I am Mr. Kirk Morales the first cousin of Liza Dunham, wife of Mr. Ted Dunham. I'm the filipino partner that they are talking about in their last posted message.
I've been reading your exchange messages with Mr. Dunham and I'm really amazed by the method's that you have been using in your farm. And the one thing that has amazed so much of your methods is the use of lacto bacillus bacteria in your piggery farm.
It is therefore a great experience for me if you would allow me to stay a few days in your place to learn the methods that you have been using.
I don't have a problem staying in your place coz I am quite familiar with it, being a former Medical Representative assigned in Samar and Leyte Area.
Kirk
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No.103
Date: 10/21/01 11:19:10 PM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: Re: Self Introduction
Dear Mr. Nishiki,
I hope that you and yours are well!
I thank you so very much for letting our partner come to your place and be able to work with you and your staff. We both are looking forward to learning your methods.
Thank you for your time and your kind consideration,
T. Dunham
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No.104
Date: 10/22/01 10:06:37 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Self Introduction
I sent my address and telephone no. to your old(?) address.
Is that reach to you?
Any way I will send again to your cousin.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.105
Date: 10/23/01 11:59:13 AM
Name: RGS
Email: goobys@yahoo.com
Subject: Starting the Business
Hi Mr. Nishiki,
I've been visiting your website since April and I am really fascinated with your method. My husband and I are thinking of starting a small hog raising business and we want to apply your methods but we don't have any first-hand experience in raising pigs. Would you suggest that we first raise them using the "conventional" way just to get a "feel" of it then shift to your methods or can we use your method immediately? If we use your method do we need to vaccinate the pigs? Actually, most of the grower pigs that are being sold here are already vaccinated. Are there any adverse effect to the pigs if they are vaccinated and your methods are used? Hope you can answer my queries. I still have many more questions so I hope you won't get tired of answering them. Thank you very much for your generosity in sharing your time and knowledge to us.
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No.106
Date: 10/24/01 01:23:14 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Starting the Business
Hello.
If you start small scale, better start with our method from the beginning,
because facility like pig pen are totally different.
You said you don't have any first-hand experience, neither did I.
This method is very theoretical, you can easily understand.
Only thing we should care is we deal with bacteria which we can't see and alive.
I suggesting inject against hog cholera, so no harm to vaccinated.
Please feel free to ask any questions, I will answer as far as I know.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.107
Date: 10/27/01 06:10:33 AM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: regulations
Nishiki San (hopefully this is appropriate),
I hope you and yours are well!
I am wondering if you were required to and if you did acquire any permits for your type of piggery? Perhaps the size of the piggery determines if you need permits or not?
Also, I am assuming that the acquiring of permits would be very easy for this type of piggery; being there is no waste.
Any input that you may have would be most appreciated.
Thank you so very much,
T. Dunham
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No.108
Date: 10/29/01 12:07:32 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: regulations
I myself dose not have any permit because my piggery is backyard scale.
If you run any business here, you need permit and require many papers.
When you request permit they will check mainly financial status,
not environmental issue. They will complain only after you started business.
I don't know well about how to get permit.
If anybody know this things, your answer here is most appreciated.
Kotaro Nishiki
Nishiki is my family name, so Nishiki San is very appropriate.
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No.109
Date: 10/29/01 09:04:32 PM
Name: Mariano Coutinho
Email: melmar2@emirates.net.ae
Subject: Bangus Farming in the Philippines
Hi :
I am looking for Info on Bangus Farmin and I aslo need to have
the contact no for Mr. Zac B Sarian
My email address is melmar2@emirates.net.ae
Thanks
Mariano
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No.110
Date: 10/30/01 04:59:03 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Bangus Farming in the Philippines
Mr. Zac Sarian's e-mail address is zacsarian@yahoo.com.
Mails are screened by his daughter.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.111
Date: 10/30/01 11:09:13 AM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: trip
Nishiki San,
Hope all is well with you and yours!
I am wondering if you would be open to meet with me in Japan while you are there in December? I would like to travel to the large piggery that you had mentioned about to me. I have no way of making arrangements to go there on my own and I am wondering if you do or if you are wiling to do so?
I am thinking that it could be a great learning experience. I would also like to bring my partner along so he could get a first hand view of it and all it encompasses.
Please let me what your thoughts are about it.
Thank you,
T. Dunham
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No.112
Date: 10/31/01 11:18:48 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: trip
I have practically no time in Japan this time because all schedule are fixed.
I have only 16 days for everything.
I have never been there, so I like to see that place by myself.
As I mentioned before, they are not so open to public due to conflict with
public people. But those are nothing do with pig raising system itself.
I will try to contact them and ask whether they accept foreign visitors.
Let's see.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.113
Date: 11/2/01 11:52:30 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: trip
Hello.
I have checked with there website and found that they closed
their old website.
No technical information or not yet ready .
They have groups of consumers to whom deliver their product.
They have regular familiarization tour to their farms for consumers.
When I go back to Japan, I'll talk to them and negotiate.
I'll be in Japan end of February again and schedule not yet finalized.
Can you arrange to come to Japan that period?
Kotaro Nishiki
I will send small picture of their piggery which I found in home page,
to your mail address.
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No.114
Date: 11/3/01 08:57:38 PM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Re: trip
Thank you so very much Nishiki San,
I think the Feb. trip will work out better for me any way. I had to let one of my key workers go and now I am short handed. I will have to train someone else for his job.
Yes I received your e-mail and thank you for the picture. One of my main questions that I have for this system of hog raising, is the amount of compost that is required to raise one hog to slaughter weight. For a large piggery I think this will be the only limiting factor on how big the piggery can be. If you can in your discussions with them, ask them about it. I would really appreciate it.
I did not reply to your e-mail for in some of your other postings you said it was harder for you to check your e-mails due to you had no hard line for your computer. You had to do it by radio or something. If it is okay to reply to your e-mails, I will do so.
Thank you again for all your time and help,
Ted & Liz Dunham
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No.115
Date: 11/8/01 05:45:39 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: My Internet connections
So far I connected Internet with three mode.
1. by wireless telephone to landline.
Since wireless, connection is very unstable.
Sometimes can connect and sometimes can not.
Even connected, cut off frequently.
connection speed is 4800bps to 7200bps
2. by celphone.
connection is stable but very expensive
mainly use for mail transactions.
connection speed is 9600bps
3 by Internet Cafe.
Internet Cafe is run by my provider, so I can receive
email also. but 35Km away.
connection speed is 54000bps but host itself is very slow.
My connection is unbelievably low speed if compare from other countries.
Yes. I can receive your email in any mode.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.116
Date: 11/9/01 09:16:30 AM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: Re: My Internet connections
I guess we are lucky. I have a digital connection here at my home and I think it is 200,000 bps. We take so many things for granted here in the states
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No.117
Date: 11/10/01 04:03:34 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: My Internet connections
200,000 bps is available even right here.
With satellite connection which cost 15,000 pesos per month.
But you don't need to pity us, we have things which you don't have.
Plenty of time.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.118
Date: 11/10/01 09:09:14 PM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Re: My Internet connections
Lol, lol, lol, I must agree with you very much! When my wife and I read your post, it made us laugh. That is the reason for our interest in building a piggery there. Life is good here to be sure, but it is not unusual for me to work 12 to 15 hours a day. We want a simpler life style, we are looking forward to the day when we can have more time like you to enjoy the simpler things in life.
My wife claims that things are so fast here. The days/weeks go by so quickly.
Keep up the good work!
PS, that is very expensive!
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No.119
Date: 11/9/01 01:14:27 PM
Name: Dea
Email: deamysweet@hotmail.com
Subject: Sasso chicken raised
Nishiki San,
Good Day to you. It's been months since I posted in your BB, I hope you still remember. tried raising Sasso chicken using lactobacilli in their drinking water and I found out that it is really a good bacteria. I bought the chicken for trial, a hundred pieces "day old" and now they are 45 days old to be exact. I did not give any vaccine because they are of small numbers and the vaccine usually are good for thousand number. My chicken are very healthy and up to now they did not get colds. I just give them chick starter and grated coconut in the afternoon. They are grazed in grassland during the day and in the hut at night. Thank you for the technology of culturing lactobacilli.
But you know, boiling soybeans are hard because it takes hours before I soften the soybeans, I researched for another method easier and just tried it 3 weeks ago. It was with rice wash. The instruction is to put it in a glass or plastic container foe a week in a dark room covered with newspaper. I tried it then after getting the puree, mixed with fresh milk. After 3 days, the milk solids floats like white cheese (smells like cheese, too). I suspect the bacteria is present so I keep it and added molasses to extend its shelf life. Do you think I'm right? By the way, here in our place, a friend of Zac S. is culturing it and sells it at P50.oo per 300 ml bottle which I use for my chicken. I just use half of it daily then refill it adding molasses or sometime brown sugar. Then I tried to make my own.
Sorry if I posted a long letter here, this might help also to those who read this. Just to prove that you are right. I hope you could send me also the picture of the piggery in Japan same as what you sent to Mr. Dunham. I am planning to try at least 3 pigs this December. Good day and more power.
Dea
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No.120
Date: 11/9/01 06:36:48 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Sasso chicken raised
I'm very grad to hear you are practicing some of idea already.
Grazed in grassland are best for chicks.
If soybeans are too hard, dip in water one day and then boil.
Making lacto bachilli with rice wash is also fine.
In Japan we wash rice well before boiling, so we have always waist rice wash.
Lacto bachilli grow very well in milk, they multiply explosively, so other bacteria can not grow in milk with lacto bachilli.
Once you have source of lacto bachilli, you just keep adding to milk. Then you can culture again and again, almost for ever.
Even if you buy 50 peso per 300 ml, you need to buy only once, you can culture yourself after ward.
But I recommend make lacto bachilli by yourself.
It is so easy and lacto bachilli you get is strongest kind of lacto bachilli in your area.
To add molasses or brown sugar accelerate growth of bacteria.
There are possibility you culturing other kind of bacteria also ,but it is OK while smell good. Smell good means good bacteria growing.
Before molasses start smell bad, you add more molasses and you can stop growth of bacteria. With controlling growth of bacteria, you can get more good bacteria and can spray to chicken or pig pen.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.121
Date: 11/12/01 11:07:57 AM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Sasso chicken raised
Thank you for the added information. Whenever I put lactobacilli in the drinking water of chicken, I usually add water again in the bottle of lacto and add molasses or brown sugar, Wiil the bacteria multiply there even without milk? Or should I always have cultured into milk as a stock?
Thank you again.
Dea
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No.122
Date: 11/12/01 01:42:57 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Sasso chicken raised
If you like to culture only lacto bachilli, better add only milk.
I think that is safer.
You adding molasses make another kind of bacteria grow.
There are way to culture good bacteria with molasses like EM.
That become long story.
Major content of EM are few kind of lactobachilli.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.123
Date: 11/15/01 08:55:23 AM
Name: Dea
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Sasso chicken raised
Kindly give me more info about EM. Is bacteria other than lactobacilli can be benificial to my chicken too? Can you suggest me internet site where I can research on other benificial bacteria or better if you could post it here so others will know also. I attended the Agri-link 2001 at World Trade Center here in Manila and I have visited a certain booth which manufacture EM but due to lack of time I did not enter the booth. I thought it is just a commercial version of lactobacilli they are selling just giving name as EM.
I hope you could enlighten me or I suggest you add information in your homepage. Thank you very much for your kindness.
Dea
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No.124
Date: 11/16/01 05:09:51 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: EM
Hello.
EM is mixture of various kind of non aerobic bacteria, mainly lactobacilli.
And they say it has ammonia eating bacteria also.
Good thing with non aerobic bacteria is you can ferment thing without air, means
you mix materials and add EM, then just seal it.
Fermentation with aerobic bacteria, you need to constantly mix to supply fresh
air and moisture for bacteria.
If you fail, it going to rotten or perish, makes very bad smell, you need some
experience and skills.
With non aerobic bacteria things are lot easier.
Still many people failed even with EM, because they think this is just chemical, but this is alive bacteria. You should treat like live animals.
Kotaro Nishiki
EM is handle by LARUTAN Resources Development Corporation some where in Makati.
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No.125
Date: 11/19/01 12:01:29 PM
Name: Dea
Email: control@ykk.com.ph
Subject: Re: Re: EM
Thank you very much for your time
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No.126
Date: 11/19/01 10:14:09 AM
Name: Ted & Liz Dunham
Email:
Subject: compost heating
I hope you are enjoying with your family Nishiki San!
It is turning cold here now, it is supposed to be only 10c tomorrow for a high! Brrrr.
My question is, doesn't the compost get hot when it is breaking down the plant cell structures? I know here from experince when we compost for our garden, it gets really hot if you do it correctly. This is what kills all the weed seeds, the heat.
A friend of mine from the Philippines told me that rice straw can be used to incubate eggs as it breaks done very quickly and keeps itself warm. Wouldn't this be to hot for the pigs as the tempature is already hot there?
Thank you!
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No.127
Date: 11/19/01 08:47:42 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: compost heating
Hello. I am missing coldness.
If you put rice straw only on the surface of the ground, that can be very hot.
Temperature can be 40c, so I'm suggesting put near to surface more sawdust that
make ground level flat.
Anyway, mixture of soil should be mix of as many kind of material as possible.
I sometime add rice straw only, and that makes heat, but pig looks doesn't care much.
Ambience is already 33c, so pig doesn't feel much difference ???
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.128
Date: 12/4/01 09:27:10 AM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Yogurt as starter
Nishiki San,
Thank you for teaching us how to make lactobacilli. Out of curiousity, I have the following questions:
1. Is it possible to use Yogurt or Yakult as the starter culture? If yes, how is this done and will the bacteria be the same as those using soybeans? I have read some recipe on using Yogurt on milk to make more Yogurt.
2. You mentioned that we can use mungo beans. There are many different kinds of beans. Would it be the same bacteria if I use different kinds of beans?
3. Do you come to Manila? If so, do you plan to visit soon? I used to work with a Japanese company. I have compare and comadre who are Japanese.
Alex Kho
Alabang, Muntinlupa
Metro Manila
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No.129
Date: 12/4/01 09:08:09 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Yogurt as starter
Hello.
1. Culture Yogurt and give to pig or human is alright, but lacto bachilues Burgarius (one in Yogurt) is very weak bachilli.
lacto bachilli have more than thousand kind, if you collect by your self, become strongest kind of lacto bachilli in your area.
I tried to culture Yakult here, but they mealy have live lacto bachilli.
2. I didn't try yet, but can be any kind of beans. We kill all bacteria by boiling. Lacto bachilli jump into beans when mix with mixer from the air.
Beans have its own bachilli, anyway strongest become dominant .
3. When I going to Japan, I transit Manila (Cebu Tokyo direct flight cancelled ). To tell the truth, I have 4 hour in manila the day after tomorrow(Dec.6)
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.130
Date: 12/5/01 06:00:51 AM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Re: Yogurt as starter
Nishiki San,
Thank you very much for your response. What time will you be in Manila for your stopover? How about coffee together near the airport? Are you flying with your family? You may text me. My number is 0916-8540608. My land line is 02-8420645 and 02-8075469.
If you have more time to stay behind Manila when you come back from Tokyo, I would like you to visit our model Hydroponic Greenhouse located at the TESDA-AANI compound, Taguig. This is the project of our Hydroponic club (Hydroponic Growers Society of the Philippines). TESDA incidentally is supported by JICA. Your website visitors are also very much welcome (write me).
I'm also a member of OPTA (Organic Producers Trade Association, Philippines). So I am familiar with cultivating LAB from rice wash (hugas bigas). I have SASSO and Kabir chickens in my backward. No pigs, they will not allow these inside a residential village in Manila. The chickens are not noisy. I also do home composting with my kitchen waste using the LAB as my activators, as well as vermicomposting using african nightcrawlers, redworms and our native earthworms. I use the compost on my Herb garden.
Back to yogurt, Yakult and beans. The best thing to do is for me (or for us) to try it out. I hope I can get your support. My first experiment is using green mungo beans. I have already had it blendered and put the material in a plastic container. Then I found out that my container is too big for the space in my ref. Can I just keep it at a cool dark place? It will be good if we can do this as not too many people have ref in the rural areas.
Because of our problems with garbage in our metropolis, I'm interested in being to use LAB for composting our kitchen waste. And I'm interested in setting up a bokashi network (similar to the EM Bokashi) in the Philippines. I would appreciate very much your support.
Let me know more about your stop-over tomorrow.
Mata,
Alex Kho
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No.131
Date: 12/6/01 12:15:07 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Yogurt as starter
Hello.
I'm writing this from SM Megamall in Manila!!!!
My internet connection from my house sometimes troubled.
On my way back this time, I'll be direct transit Manila, On Dec.24 Christmas day.
Next time may be end of Feb or Mar, I'll stay at least one day in Manila.
I have been to TESDA before to see weekend market.
Your Yoghurt can be store in cool dark place.
Make sure that is sealed tight to avoid air contact.
Air inside container also no good.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.132
Date: 12/5/01 06:08:24 AM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Charcoal vinegar
Nishiki San,
I've noticed that there are no messages in the bulletin board regarding your technique on making charcoal vinegar. Personally, I think it is an important knowhow. I like to learn from you about this. However, I have difficulty in imagining how your container tank look like. Do you have other images that I can look? Where do you get the container?
Thanks in advance,
Alex K.
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No.133
Date: 12/8/01 09:24:36 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Charcoal vinegar
Now I'm in Tokyo.
I thought nobody interested in charcoal vinegar.
I put that on web page because we can make such delicate products with free material. May be, way I describe on web page are not clear enough to understand.
I made container(maker? stove? or just drum) from 200 litter used drum from market.
Structures are very simple, It just look like big stove, there is air inlet at side bottom, cover on top with chimney. Cover and chimney is connected. There is support frame for turn drum to take out charcoal.
I will take another picture and put to web page when I back to Philippine.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.134
Date: 01/7/02 03:27:09 AM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Question on Lactobacilli preparation
Nishiki San,
I hope you had a great time with your trip to and from Japan. I do have a number of questions but I thought of just waiting for you to be back from your vacation.
Here's one question on lactobacilli preparation:
You mentioned that:
"When it is already cool, put the same inside the refrigerator for one week. After that period the liquid and the solid portions would have separated. The liquid will be at the bottom while the solids will be on top.
The liquid at the bottom of the blendered material is the seed of the lactobacilli."
I have my blended soybeans already in the refrigirator for two days already. I don't see the solids raising to the top. Did I do something wrong?
What I do know is that the liquid should be at the top while the solids will be at the bottom (because it is normally heavier).
A happy new year to you and your family. I have more questions but it can wait.
Alex Kho
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No.135
Date: 01/10/02 10:16:33 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Question on Lactobacilli preparation
Hello. Happy New years.
My host down for a while, I can access only now, but I think your blended soy beens already started separate solid and liquid.
Shapes will be different depending on what type of Lacto bachilli you caught.
Solid contains air, so usually float up ward.
Lacto bachilli should be there unless you mix in clean room.
You can put mixture in to milk and wait while, if nothing happen better try all over again because lacto bachilli you caught is very weak.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.136
Date: 01/15/02 09:37:12 PM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Re: Re: Question on Lactobacilli preparation
Nishiki San,
Yes, your host has been down for some time. But it is nice to hear from you once again.
I still do not understand about the solids staying on top. The solids I have stayed at the bottom. Maybe I did not blend it long enough. How long do I have to blend 500 grams of boiled soybeans?
What do you do with the solids after it has been separated? I tried them on my free-range chickens and the chickens love it.
What is supposed to happen when you wait a while after mixing to milk? Once again, thanks a lot.
Alex
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No.137
Date: 01/17/02 12:44:11 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Question on Lactobacilli preparation
Hello.
May be your solid are not fine enough to float. Anyway if you mix with milk
then you will see solid going to float. That is not so important.
Better separate solid and liquid by like cheese cloth and then add liquid to milk
Soy been solid is vest for chicken that with lacto bachilli.
I give milk solid (yogurt) to any animals like dog and pig. That adjust their intestine conditions.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.138
Date: 02/11/02 07:59:06 PM
Name: Reginald
Email: rcp@ytpi.com
Subject: Pigs wastes
Hello! We are very curious about the effect of lactobaccili for pigs. We will be trying it soon. How about the wastes of the pigs? Will there be no problem if you don't clean the pens? How about the parasites? Will they not take advantage of the dirty pens then eventually the pigs will suffer? Hope to know the answer soon! Arigatoo Gozaimasu!!
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No.139
Date: 02/12/02 11:29:41 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Pigs wastes
Hello.
That is the most amazing part of this system.
We usually mix pig wastes with soil, but even you just leave as it is, it will disappear in a one day.
These are the work of good bacteria.
When I mentioned bacteria, including mold and yeast also, they all work together to digest manure.
These are not only lacto bachilli's work, lacto bachilli just help all good bacteria, mold, yeast works
Only problem is I don't have any pig manure for biogas.
I dewarm when piglet weaning and giving lot of green grass also help dewarming.
Inside pigpen is not dirty at all, its full of good bacteria.
I let my 4 years old daughter play inside pigpen.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.140
Date: 04/1/02 08:28:56 AM
Name: Alex Kho
Email: alexkho@magis.every1.net
Subject: Chicken diseases
Hello Nishiski San,
It was a great pleasure to have met you while you were in Manila.
I do have a number of questions on chickens. Is there a natural way of treating chicken diseases? Do you use vitamins & medicines on your chickens?
Recently, I bought 7 chickens from the market and they had colds. I mixed them with the 12 chickens I already have. The new chickens I bought died within a day or two. Some days after, my other chickens died too, except for 3.
The 3 chickens left seems to still have colds but they still look strong. Is there a way for me to save these 3 chickens?
I also have 17 chicks and they look OK. Any suggestion on how I could prevent them from getting the desease? I've heard about immunization.
The lession I learned from this experience is that I should separate the new chickens just to make sure they do not bring in diseases.
The chickens I mentioned to you are those in my backyard. Not the one at Tuloy which we visited.
I hope to hear from you soon. If you have chance again to visit Manila, please let me know. It will be good if you could schedule your your stay here to fall on a Saturday so we could visit Tesda AANI.
Alex
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No.141
Date: 04/3/02 08:37:17 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: Chicken diseases
Hello. Thank you for picking me up at airport and taking me around.
Facilities for street children are very interesting.
I don't have much problem with chicken, so I never give any vitamin or medicine.
My system usually need not any medicine or additives.
But I had a same problem with pig, I bought piglet from local market which was so cheep so I couldn't resist to buy. My thinking that time was, If only half number of pig survive, still it can pay. But end up with brought many diseases in my pigpen.
To make chicken stronger, some people mix chili to the water.
If it is like cocksidium(I don't know the spelling) mix vinegar will help.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.142
Date: 04/3/02 08:47:19 AM
Name: Rene
Email: rene_loza@yahoo.com
Subject: No Subject
HI Nishiki,
The pigpen we are trying to build will accomodate at least 100 heads of fatteners, and the flooring of the building will be cemented beacause the soil in our area is not good. My questions are:
1. What will be the best way I can store the wastes of these pigs, do I need to dig up deep enough to store the wastes there and cover it just like a septic tank or just a lagoon which is open?
2. What will be the ideal size of each pigpen?
Thanks Nishiki and I hope we could meet so we could discuss some business opportunities.
Rene
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No.143
Date: 04/4/02 01:23:45 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@mozcom.com
Subject: Re: No Subject
Hello.
If you can dig 90cm then quality of soil is not matter.
I'm not a expert of piggery, my knowledge is limited to my type of systems only.
Sorry I'm not right person to answer these questions.
Some hints to cemented pen are on this BBS below.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.144
Date: 05/4/02 12:00:26 PM
Name: Pol
Email: ibaan@digitelone.com
Subject: Lacto Baccili
Website: www.calamias.com-1.net
I boiled and blended soy beans. I ended up with about 1 liter of the creamy substance which is thick, like taho. Is this correct?
While blending do you have keep the blender open?
If I put 1 liter of the creamy substance in 3 liters of milk that will be 4 liters of lactobacilli. So how do I multiply it? I can't understand your how to ultiply instructions.
Thank you very much
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No.145
Date: 05/4/02 06:37:22 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Lacto Baccili
hello.
If your feel too creamy, just add water. Or it is no harm with very creamy.
You don't need to be accurate because lacto bachilli is very strong and it will grow anyway.
When you boil, most of other bacteria are eliminated.
If you closed blender then stair it in open while very hot.
To multiply, keep some product, lets say 300cc and add to 2 litter of milk.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.146
Date: 05/11/02 12:06:32 PM
Name: Pol
Email: ibaan@digitelone.com
Subject: Re: Re: Lacto Baccili
After one week in ref, soy beans solidified, no liquid, or very little liquid to strain. What I did was I boiled the creamy substance again, stirred and put in sealed container, and put in refrigerator again.
Is that correct or do I have to start all over again?
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No.147
Date: 05/23/02 11:23:01 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Lacto Baccili
Sorry for late reply. I hope lactobachilli is already produced.
It is perfectly alright, boil again with adding water.
What ever come out, better try to mix with milk and wait result.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.148
Date: 05/28/02 03:41:52 PM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lacto Baccili
Kotaro-san,
I mixed with fresh unsterilized, unpasteurized milk direct from cow. Bubbles formed on top. Solid stayed in middle. I noticed everyday solid and liquid still separating. It's been 4 days since I mixed with milk. Is this alright.
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No.149
Date: 05/30/02 10:12:59 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: : Lacto Baccili
Hello.
As far as milk separate liquid and solid, lacto bachilli growing.
But what a gorgeous culture media you have. I want to drink myself.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.150
Date: 05/31/02 11:10:15 AM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: Re: : Lacto Baccili
I'm afraid to drink the unpasteurized milk. Don't know how to pasteurize or sterilize. Can you teach me how so I can drink milk?
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No.151
Date: 06/3/02 06:38:30 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: : Lacto Baccili
Hello.
Fresh milk right from the cow right a way normally can drink even without pasteurize.
It should milked sanitary way, like with clean hand and sanitized cow udder.
To determined quality of milk, just smell and taste a bit. If metallic or acid smell might be not suitable for drink.
There are many way to pasteurize, simple one is just boil up to 72 degree Celsius and after 15 second, cool immediately.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.152
Date: 05/4/02 05:09:11 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: how to bath pig
I had several inquiry about bathing of pig by e-mail.
They like to know how to let pig take bath, or spray water.
With this system, It is not necessary to spray water to pig.
Pig taking bath with soil, so no need to warry about skin disease.
Off course pig like bath very much, if your pig pen become very dry then
spray water to pig, they will be pleased very much.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.153
Date: 05/28/02 03:46:45 PM
Name: Raul Alcazar
Email: alcazar@digitelone.com
Subject: FERMENTED SAWDUST
Kotato-san,
I think I'm successful in making fermented sawdust. I fed to chicken they like it and so far no untoward incident. My question is: Can you feed pure fermented sawdust to chickens? I mean no more other kinds of feeds. If not what should be formulation of feeds? How many sawdust do I have to give chicken?
Thank you
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No.154
Date: 05/28/02 06:47:58 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: FERMENTED SAWDUST
Congratulations.
Fermented sawdust is like a additive. Add more fiber and send good bacteria to chicken's intestine, so can not be replacement of all feed.
Usually mix 10 to 15% to feed, means you can save feed 10 to 15%.
More than saving, it make chicken healthier.
I add up to 25% for layer(egg production). If add more than 15%, chicken tend to grow slower but become more healthier.
So I think marginal point for broiler is 10% and layer is 20%.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.155
Date: 06/1/02 03:11:13 PM
Name: Anonymous
Email:
Subject: Re: Re: FERMENTED SAWDUST
Do you know of other ways to save on commercial feeds? I would like to formulate own feeds but I don't know how. What else can be used as feeds as subsitute for commercial feeds?
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No.156
Date: 06/1/02 10:16:05 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: FERMENTED SAWDUST
I don't have any good idea to save feeds cost here so far.
I've tried to mix my own feed but that cost more than commercial feeds.
Also tried to use local product like kamote, kamote leaf, cassava, corn but still expensive.
My wife grow some kamote and cassava but it is more profitable to sell in local market. She never give me free! Of course, harvest residue goes to pig and chicken.
We should find some materials without commercial value.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.157
Date: 06/27/02 12:05:53 AM
Name: Pol
Email: ibaan@digitelone.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: FERMENTED SAWDUST
I went to Bio Search 2002 at World Trade Center Roxas Blvd. I asked knowledgeable people there what is rice bran and what is rice hull. I found out that rice bran is "darak" and rice hull is "ipa". Therefore I must have made a mistake in preparing fermented sawdust because what I used was rice hull. Here in our place there are two kinds of palay residue. The one I used was the rough one because I can get it for free. The other one which is called "darak" here is fine and is for sale.
Could you make some comments on this please.
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No.158
Date: 06/28/02 12:44:41 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: FERMENTED SAWDUST
In Visaya, rice bran and rice hull both called "tahop".
I don't understand why they called same name.
This is the rice country.
Sometime people say "big tahop" for rice hull and "small tahop" for rice bran.
Both contain very strong bacteria called bacillus natto.
This bacteria is good and very useful.
Perform very important roll in fermentation.
Rice hull doesn’t have much nutrient so it is very hard to ferment if rice hull alone. But if you give water and nutrient (like rice bran!) it help fermentation.
Rice hull is coated with glass like substance so hard to ferment itself.
If you break its substance then change to very useful material.
Rice bran contain almost perfect materials for fermentation including bacillus natto.
Rice bran is so nutritious, so sometime I think better eat rice bran than rice.
If you take care very well, it is possible to make fermented saw dust from rice hull, but if you use rice bran, it is so easy to make.
Kotaro Nishiki in Tokyo
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No.159
Date: 06/9/02 01:57:37 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: old log of Forum area(BBS)
I noticed old log of this Forum Area is disappearing.
So I place back up file at top of "Periodical Reviews".
I have changed order, older one first.
That is just a plain text, so easier to download.
So far up to April 2001.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.160
Date: 06/27/02 12:08:47 AM
Name: RAUL ALCAZAR
Email: alcazar@digitelone.com
Subject: COPRA RESIDUE (?)
Here in our place, there is something called "palyat". According to the vendor it is copra residue after the oil is extracted. It is cheap sells for only P8.00 per kilo. Could I use this for chicken feeds? What is the nutritional value?
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No.161
Date: 06/27/02 08:22:30 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: COPRA RESIDUE (?)
I think that is the thing called copra meal.
Most of commercial feed contain copra meal especially in Philippine.
.
Many people complaining that commercial feed contain too much copra meal.
I don't know exact nutrient. You can mix to your feed but not too much.
Any body know the reason why people complaining?
Kotaro Nishiki now in Tokyo
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No.162
Date: 07/2/02 06:16:57 AM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Spraying of Lactobacilli
How often do we have to spray the ground with lactobacilli so as to ensure their continuing existence?
I received your email Mr. Nishiki, thanks.
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No.163
Date: 07/3/02 12:38:14 AM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@dream.com
Subject: Re: Spraying of Lactobacilli
Hello.
It is depend on the condition of pigpen floor.
If condition is very good you don't need to spray because lacto bachilli growing already.
I usually spray once when finish making pigpen.
On the pigpen floor, many kind of bacteria growing, lacto bachilli help keep balance of good bacteria on the floor.
This topic is discussed before, so please check old log of Forum.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.164
Date: 07/3/02 01:29:17 PM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: Spraying of Lactobacilli
Sorry, Mr Nishiki for missing those previous helpful posts. I have already read and understood them as of this writing. I only wish that one day, me and my wife will get the chance to visit your farm so as to get a better understanding of the setup of your system. Anyway, I suppose that as of today some farms already have adapted your system and it would be a pleasure also if you could recommend visiting any site in Luzon doing this on a commercial scale. I have visited a number of websites worldwide about piggery and most of the farmers are very much concerned or troubled by the manure control which tend to be very expensive. It is common in the Philippines that a site built today with no complaints due to its present remoteness could easily become a subject of neighbor petition someday due to fast growing number of neighbors. I still don't understand the 60% moisture very much. But will probably get a better grip on it as soon as I visited your farm. By the way, I was made to understand by some friends and relatives that one must sell at 3 months fatteners age to realize a good profit because fatteners tend to eat more thus reducing profit. How true is that? Can you recommend a good breed present in the Philippines? I have visited the website http://www.pureleanfarms.com and they sell some breeds, what can you say about the breed they sell? Another one is http://www.pic.com/philippines which says their breed can grow as 100kgs
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No.165
Date: 07/3/02 09:19:21 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Spraying of Lactobacilli
Sorry I don't know anybody adapting this system in Luzon.
There is more accurate way to determine moisture content.
First put 200g of soil in a can, heat that soil until dry and measure again, difference is weight of water. Difference divided 200 x 100= moisture content in percent.
If you can sell pig earlier stage, like for Lechon, you can save feed cost which is very expensive here. But usually small pig are cheaper and only get smaller margin. Pig can grow to 100kgs in 6 month, but here tend to longer, I'm not sure whether because of heat or way to give feed. Most of farmer in my place selling pig with weight of 60 to 80Kgs because of feed cost.
As I live in remote place, breed available is limited.
By the way I have two saw which boar is called PIC, some congressman imported from Australia. Any way these are mix with local already, I can not say good or bad.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.166
Date: 07/4/02 12:41:56 AM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Dea Jean mentioned Tagaytay doing it
Mr. Nishiki San thanks for the quick reply.
Dea Jean on an earlier post mentioned the same method is being practiced already in some poultries in Tagaytay. Am I right to assume that chicken manure has even worse foul smell compared to pigs and therefore your method can have more ravishing result with pig's manure?
Sorry for being too inquisitive but then again, I'd like to praise you for your noble cause helping us mediocre in this business.
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No.167
Date: 07/3/02 01:46:14 PM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Feeds cost ( others please join)
Mr. Nishiki San and friends, I've been hearing that cost of feeds is becoming more expensive in Philippines which plays the biggest factor in the profitability of piggery business. If I were to rely only on commercial feeds can you or any of our friends reading this please comment on what age one must harvest to maximize profit?
I also heard in my area some Bataan farmers mix their own feeds. If one chooses to build or buy a feed mill, how much does it usually costs? Would any reader please contribute his feed mix formula so as to help beginners like me on this forum?
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No.168
Date: 07/4/02 12:20:59 PM
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Subject: Worm
Mr. Nishiki San, how are you? I hope you are doing fine. Sorry to bother you again with a multiple questions at a time. I was just wondering if we have to deworm the pigs and if so, would the little worms co-exist with the bacteria on the ground? I suppose the compost soil is a good host for some worms also. So if that's the case, how do we get rid of the worms on the ground so as not to let our pigs catch them again?
Again, thanks for your time.
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No.169
Date: 07/4/02 03:08:01 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: Worm
First of all, It is important to try not bring worm to pigpen.
When you get piglet, deworm first.
For the healthy pig, small number of worm dose not matter.
But if you feel or suspect many worm on the floor, there is a way to clean entire floor.
First put rice straw about 15 to 20 cm on the floor and set fire.
After that you should spray lacto bachilli for preventing other bad bacteria grow.
Fire kill all bacteria also, you should careful.
There are no competition between bacteria, there is possibility bad bacteria become dominant.
In this way you can reset condition of pigpen floor.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.170
Date: 07/7/02 07:14:16 PM
Name: Helen Grace T. Alva
Email: hpcalex2@manila-online.net
Subject: further study of lactobaccilli
Good day! I am a student from the University of the Philippines in Los Baos, Laguna and I would like to make a study on your lactobaccilli dirt flooring as my Special Problem Proposal this semester. Please give me assistance.
Thank you.
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No.171
Date: 07/7/02 09:09:29 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: further study of lactobaccilli
With pleasure, but what way?
Kotaro Nishiki now in Manila
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No.172
Date: 07/10/02 01:37:43 PM
Name: helen
Email: helengrace_alva@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: further study of lactobaccilli
Mr. Nishiki,
We will be having our sembreak this coming October-November and I would like to visit your farm in Baybay, Leyte. I would like to ask your permission to study your pig farm and gather data about it while staying there. I would like to use it as my Special Problem paper to be submitted this second semester.
Hoping for your kind consideration.
Thank you and God bless!
helen
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No.173
Date: 07/10/02 12:32:13 AM
Name: helen
Email: helengrace_alva@hotmail.com
Subject: further study of lactobaccilli
Good day! I will be making my Special Problem, more like a thesis, this coming semester. It would be of great help if you would allow me to study your pig farm and help me in my data gathering.
Thank you and God bless!
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No.174
Date: 07/11/02 12:33:30 AM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: further study of lactobaccilli
By all means.
Most important thing is see real things and practice.
Ha hah ! I'm not qualified to say that.
I started this system without seeing real things.
That means this system is very logical and easy to understand.
Only thing you need to understand is, you are dealing with live things "bacteria" whoes life cycle is mostly only 30 minuets.
October, November, I’m in Leyte. If you like, you can stay with us.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.175
Date: 07/20/02 09:45:25 PM
Name: Helen
Email: helengrace_alva@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Re: further study of lactobaccilli
Mr. Nishiki,
Good day! I would like to thank you for your patience especially in answering my questions. I think I have a VERY BIG CHANCE on having my thesis proposal be accepted this semester because my professor said that the technology you adapted is great.
It would be good if I can see the real things and practice by going there. I'm really looking forward to visiting your farm! I'm very happy that I've learned about your technology through my uncle.
More power to you!
Helen
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No.176
Date: 07/8/02 12:15:08 PM
Name: Raul Alcazar
Email: alcazar@digitelone.com
Subject: Re: Re: further study of lactobaccilli
Helen,
Would like to inform you tht I'm in the proces of making LB, but not yet succesful. if I can be of any help just email me.
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No.177
Date: 07/15/02 10:33:57 PM
Name: Chris Crisostomo
Email: chris_cris@yahoo.com
Subject: agri-business and technology
Dear Kitaro,
I am like you who grew up in the city (Manila) but presently residing in Sta. Maria, Bulacan.
I'm working in Saudi Arabia since 1981 and I'm planning to venture in agri-business before I retire.
I've already bought some farm land and specially interested in raising pig, duck(puting itik), and tilapia.
My wife already constructed pig pens but it was the traditional concrete type. I may have to modify it if I'm going to adapt your method.
I writing this e-mail because I'm specially interested in duck (puting itik) raising and tilapia fish farming. I want to know if you have some materials or technology at hand that would help me update my basic knowledge on these subject.
Thanks and Best Regards,
Chris
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No.178
Date: 07/16/02 11:26:32 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: agri-business and technology
Hello.
Sorry I don't know any new technology growing duck and tilapia.
I have bebbie duck and tilapia but mainly for just a fun.
It is nice to see duck walking around garden and see edible fish in the pond.
Please refer our forum item No.2. You can down load old log at top of "Periodical Reviews". I put serial numbers for the Logs.
What kind of duck "Puting itik" is, I know itik means duck.
I had a plan to make chicken cage over the fish pond and feed tilapia a chicken manure which practiced in South East Asia and China.
My wife strongly against it because if people come to know we feed manure, nobody going to eat our product.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.179
Date: 08/2/02 12:44:47 AM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: chicken feed formula
Mr. Alcazar's e-mail dispatched July 22. was in my old mail box.
Please note my e-mail address have been changed to nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
That was very good information.
I transfer his e-mail here.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
Kotaro-san,
I don't know if it's my server or your server who is down. I can't log-in to your website from here in Batangas.
I'd like to share this info which I got from TLRC:
FEEDS FORMULATION (for chicken) : 30% copra meal, 40% grinded corn, 30% rice bran (darak). i tried this and the chickens love it. It will cost only about P8.00 per kilo. However, heres the problem: the mixture turned rancid after just a one day. There could have been a reaction by the copra meal. So, I have to solve rancidity. Do you have idea how I can prevent rancidity?
Now, here's something I am now trying to do. Since, copra meal turns rancid easily, I will make fermented sawdust using copra meal instead of rice bran. I will be using you formula. I haven't started yet, but what do you think?
You may post this in the forum
Thank you for your time
RAUL
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No.180
Date: 08/2/02 12:50:55 AM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: chicken feed formula
Hello.
Thank you for your nice information.
That formula look very simple so any one can practice.
I don't have copra meal here, so I can not practice myself.
But I think it is harder to make fermented sawdust with copra meal.
How about ferment all feeds which makes feeds life longer.
Procedure is similar to making fermented sawdust.
First add 60% water to rice bran (better less 10 kgs, as starter) and mix well.
Add few handful of rice husk to accrete fermentation( to give air and add useful bacteria)
To determine 60% moisture, refer to old log.
Wait till become hot (may take one or two days) and mix again, if moisture decrease, add water.
Key is keep 60 % moisture in any stage.
Add remaining rice bran and mix. Wait till hot again( can be 50 degree Celsius)
Add copra meal and spray lacto bachilli, wait till hot and then mix grinned corn.
You should be careful not to make too hot and if contents become dry, you will lose all nutrient. If temperature become to high like over 50 degree, mix and pile flat.
If this is successful, can be break though of feeding cost.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.181
Date: 08/2/02 11:23:59 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: lacto bachilli to feeds
Here is another e-mail form Mr. Narvaez who agree to transfer to this Forum.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Dear Kotaro San,
Hello again !!! I read all that is in your forum yesterday. It was so interesting and very educational about the subject. I just like to ask you if I can add lactobacilli in the water of the pigs for drinking or in the feeds they eat? If yes how many percent shall I add to their drink and in their feeds? Thank you and hope you will answer my questions since I cannot do the inoculation of the pigpen at the moment.
regards,
Rhoel Narvaez
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No.182
Date: 08/2/02 11:38:43 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: lacto bachilli to feeds
Hello.
You can add lacto bachilli to drinking water or feeds. You can expect some improvement of intestine conditions.
But don't expect too much because most of lacto bachilli will killed during passing stomach with stomach acid.
This happens in case of human also.
There are two way of lacto bachilli works, one is survived lacto bachilli work directory in intestine and other is even lacto bachilli dead but materials which lacto bachilli ever flourished are very good source(media) or food for lacto bachilli which exist intestine already.
In that sense, better add lacto bachilli to feeds than water in case of wet feeding.
Most important thing is, make environment with full of good bacteria.
lacto bachilli is just helping good bacteria growth.
So best solution will be make soil floor with full of good bacteria.
To pass stomach alive, it is better with many lacto bachilli as possible, but for the actual use, just 1% will be more than enough .
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.183
Date: 08/5/02 08:35:07 AM
Name: Rhoel Narvaez
Email: rdm02k
Subject: Re: Re: lacto bachilli to feeds
dear Nishiki-san,
Thank you for answering all my inquiries. It clears the cobwebs in my mind regarding the subject matter. I htink I'm ready to do what I have learned from you,though I know I will be having questions again in the future,Thank you very much and regards to your 4 year old daughter. I also have daughter who's turning 3 this August 12.
Best regards,
Rhoel
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No.184
Date: 08/23/02 11:15:08 AM
Name: Rhoel Narvaez
Email: rdm02k@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Question on Sasso Chicken
Nishiki san,
Hi!!! It's me again. I just saw a sasso chicken when we went to the province last week. I just want to know if the eggs of the Sassao chicken are bigger than the average chicken? If yes, will they be sold in bigger price than the ordinary one's?
Regards,
Rhoel
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No.185
Date: 08/24/02 11:03:55 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@dream.com
Subject: Re: Re: Question on Sasso Chicken
Sasso chicken's egg is ordinary size (it's just a chicken) but usually color brown.
I heard some people in Manila called golden egg and selling 6 pesos each.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.186
Date: 08/24/02 10:29:35 AM
Name: Rhoel Narvaez
Email: rdm02k@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Re: Question on Sasso Chicken
Nishiki-san,
As I am waiting for you answer on my previous question regarding Sasso chicken I want to add one more question about it.
What is the original sasso chicken? The one that has no feather in the neck or the one that has feather in the neck?
I'm just curious about it.
Regards,
Rhoel
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No.187
Date: 08/24/02 11:05:54 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@dream.com
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Question on Sasso Chicken
Sasso chicken was imported from France for free range chicken(not actually free, they have fenced).
They are both porpoise chicken (egg and meat) and grow bigger.
Body are covered with feather. Similar to Kabir from Israel.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.188
Date: 08/4/02 01:01:01 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: questions
Here is another question from Mr. Narvaez
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hello Nishiki-san,
As I am waiting for you to post your answers to my previous questions in the Forum Area, here are some questions again that emerge as I am reading the BBS. Hope you don't mind answering them all for us readers.
1. What kind of place do I have to do the mixing and blending for lactobacilli?
2. Is lactobacilli good for farmlands if I innoculate the whole ricefield?
3. Which is more better in collecting lactobacilli, soybeans or mongo beans?
4. If the soil in the pigpen drops in its original level after 3 months and upon adding soil, should I also inoculate it again with lactobacilli?
These is all for now Nishiki-san.
Regards,
Rhoel
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No.189
Date: 08/4/02 01:07:06 PM
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Subject: Re: questions
Hello.
1. What kind of place do I have to do the mixing and blending for lactobacilli?
Any ordinary place with good environment.
2. Is lactobacilli good for farmlands if I inoculate the whole Richfield?
There will be some good effect with organically growing rice, without using pesticide. Organic field have many bacteria, lacto bachilli help or adjust grow good bacteria.
3. Which is more better in collecting lactobacilli, soybeans or mongo beans?
I have tried only soybeans, mongo beans should be alright also.
4. If the soil in the pigpen drops in its original level after 3 months and upon adding soil, should I also inoculate it again with lactobacilli?
Better spray lacto bachilli every time put new materials.
But if condition is good, not essential.
I hope my answer meet your questions.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.190
Date: 08/19/02 05:53:17 PM
Name: Raul
Email: alcazar@digitelone.com
Subject: STORAGE
How do you store lactobacilli? do you keep it refrigerated or can be stored at room temperature?
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No.191
Date: 08/24/02 10:28:17 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@dream.com
Subject: Re: STORAGE
Lacto bachilli can be stored in cool dark place with airtight seal.
If you have a space, better store in refrigerator to avoid contact with other bacteria.
Refer message No.131
Kotaro Nishiki
Sorry for late reply, my provider in Leyte has down and could not check my home page. Now I'm in Tokyo.
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No.192
Date: 08/26/02 10:49:19 AM
Name: Rhoel Narvaez
Email: rdm02k@yahoo.com
Subject: Another Subject
Dear Nishiki-san,
I am writing to you again but I think this is another subject. It's about trees, but if you find it appropriate to post it in the forum area,it's okay with me.
We have planted some mango and mahogany trees in the province last week and we are planning to plant more next year if the initial ones grew good on that land. Do you have a technology in planting trees? I noticed that the picture of your place has so many trees that inspired me to ask questions about tree planting.
For Mango:
1. What is the ideal distance in planting mango trees?
2. Do I need to cut some branches when they grow up? If yes, how old is the appropriate time in cutting branches?
For Mahogany:
1. What is the ideal distance in planting mahogany trees?
2. How many years before I can harvest it?
3. Do I have to cut branches too? If yes, how old will they be for me to cut them?
4. Is it good to plant them near a water?
Hope you will answer these questions of mine. Any added information regarding the subject matter will be highly appreciated. Thank you very much in advance.
Regards,
Rhoel M. Narvaez
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No.193
Date: 08/27/02 11:09:24 PM
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Email: nishiki@ac.mbn.or.jp
Subject: Re: tree planting
Sorry I'm not right person to answer.
Check Manila bulletin agriculture section or Agriculture magazine.
There are seminar for fruits tree planting almost every week in Manila.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.194
subject: What breed
Name: Gregg
Date Posted: Sep 19, 02 - 9:48 PM
Email: tatangor@cs.com
Message: Dear Mr. Nishiki:
Mr. Nishiki could you tell me what type of breed of pigs and chickens you're raising? Are they breeds native to the Philippines. If they are not Philippine native pigs and chickens, what exact type of breed you're raising. Whe it comes to chicken, I've heard some people saying that they don't like the imported chickens because they do not taste as good as the Philippine native chickens. They even say that the meat of imported chickens are somewhat hard. I thank you for giving us this very informative forum. More power to you. I was hoping that I will actually see your farm when I go back to the Philippines.
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No.195
Subject: Re: What breed
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Sep 22, 02 - 7:43 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: Hello.
For the my pig breed please refer around message no.24 and no.165. I'm not growing any particular breed.
Certainly there are Philippine native breed of pig and chicken.
Both are more tastier than conventional breed.
Local pig is more wild and hard to find now a day.
Native chicken are widely growing all over the country.
That is pure free range chicken, just keep outside and give some feed in the morning and evening for not to forget where they living.
Many people ever tried to grow native chicken commercially because of taste, but they grow very slow and need wide space.
I'm growing bantress for meat and Kabir, babcock and starcross for egg.
Mostly personal consumption.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.196
Subject: Re: Re: What breed
Name: RAUL ALCAZAR
Date Posted: Nov 17, 02 - 6:00 AM
Email: alcazar@digitelone.com
Message:
What do you feed your kabir chickens?
Do you also raise sasso?
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
No.197
Hello.
For the my pig breed please refer around message no.24 and no.165. I'm not growing any particular breed.
Certainly there are Philippine native breed of pig and chicken.
Both are more tastier than conventional breed.
Local pig is more wild and hard to find now a day.
Native chicken are widely growing all over the country.
That is pure free range chicken, just keep outside and give some feed in the morning and evening for not to forget where they living.
Many people ever tried to grow native chicken commercially because of taste, but they grow very slow and need wide space.
I'm growing bantress for meat and Kabir, babcock and starcross for egg.
Mostly personal consumption.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.198
Subject: Re: Re: Re: What breed
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Nov 19, 02 - 6:36 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message:
Kabir's feed are just commercial feed and lot of green grass.
I like to try Sasso also but not available here.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.199
Subject: Re: Question on Lactobacilli preparation
Name: Gerry Gervacio
Date Posted: Oct 24, 02 - 9:20 PM
Email: gsgervacio@philsolutions.net
Website http://www.philsolutions.net
Message: Hi,
I have been browsing your web site recently and I want to thank you for sharing these information to all of us. Anyway I have a question regarding the production of lactobacilli. Once I have produced the stock solution or the seed, can i use other material other than milk to propagate the lacto, this is because i want to cut down the cost for the production of lacto. thanks and good day
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No200
Subject: Kabir/Sasso Chickens
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Date Posted: Jan 11, 03 - 5:08 PM
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Message: Mr. Nishiki let me first greet you and our brothers in this forum a belated
Happy New Year. By now, I suppose you have already sourced Sasso/Kabir
Chickens. I wonder how profitable raising these chickens compared to the
ordinary native chickens. How much older before they can be sold. How much
do they weight at 2 or 3 months old.
thanks
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NO.201
Subject: Re: Kabir/Sasso Chickens
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Jan 11, 03 - 10:03 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: Happy New Year to you too.
As I live in very remote area, I don't have Sasso chicken yet.
I grow Kabir for just home consumption.
Kabir chicks sold mix(male and female) here, so I grow two month and eat rooster, transfer hen to layer cage.
I hard Sasso , Kabir meat and eggs get high price in Manila, but here people pay only by kilos of broiler. Even more, people not used to see brown color egg, so not saleable....
Kabir usually grow 60 days and become 2 to 3 kilos.
Kabir can grow to 4 to 5 kilos but not tasty.
Profitability depend on price you can sell in your place.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.202
Subject: Making Yakult
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Jan 11, 03 - 9:33 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: Before I had question about making lacto bachilli from Yakult.
Now I could make Yakult form Yakult!
It may not related to farming but interesting.
At least you can drink Yakult.
Materials
skim milk 60g
sugar 20g
Yakult one small bottle(Lacto bachilli Yakult Kazei shirota strain)
apple one
Preparations
First clean Thermos with pouring boiling water.
keep Yakult in room temperature.
grater apple and squeeze with cloth(make apple juice)
Mix skim milk and sugar for easier melt.
Add water to apple juice up to become 500 ml.
pure apple water to skim milk and sugar mix.
boil up to simmer, continue simmer 5 to 10 minute for sanitation.
cool immediately using running water to 45 Celsius
when temperature become 45 degree then mix one small bottle of Yakult.
put into thermos, close tight, wait 10 hours.
separate liquid and solid, liquid is Yakult!
Color may not brownish like Yakult but taste like Yakult.
If you like brownish color, change material for fructose, which was apple.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.203
Subject: Feed Mix Using Soya
Name: Gener Alcoreza
Date Posted: Jan 28, 03 - 5:03 PM
Email: genie_ps@hotmail.com
Message: I think, I found a good and cheap source of soya bean meal. A container
shipyard in Mariveles, Bataan most of the time keeps a good supply the
whole year round.
Can you please publish a good feed mix formula for both poultry and piggery mixing soya bean meal?
Thanks and regards.
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No.204
Subject: Re: Feed Mix Using Soya
Name: Koaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Feb 3, 03 - 6:27 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: As I mentioned before I'm not right person to answer. There are many specialist working on that.
Anyway I'm not so particular about feed mix ratio with giving soil and green grass.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.205
Subject: farrowing
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Apr 13, 03 - 3:58 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki san, are you breeding pigs in your farm? If so are your piglets
born on the same bedding of mixed compost?
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No.206
Subject: Re: farrowing
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Apr 19, 03 - 6:56 PM
Email: nishki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message:
I have 4 saws and breeding in my place.
Usually once saw put in to one pen, they spend whole life in the same pen.
Nothing come out from the pen except piglet
Dirt floor with good condition are full of good bacteria, you don't need to add anything.
Many people wary mother may crush piglet, but that is depend on quality of the mother.
We have wide space(4mx4m) so wise mother never crush piglet
If mother ever crush piglet, suck mother should be eliminated.
I had such kind of mother before and disappeared when Fiesta.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.207
Subject: heating&nesting reqr'mnts
Name: Jef A. Tongol
Date Posted: May 18, 03 - 5:03 AM
Email: atla84@hotmail.com
Message: mr. nishiki i've red your procedure on raising chickens. i'm planning
to do the same, i just want to know if it is necessary to give heating
to newly hatch chicks, w/c is not mentioned in the article.
moreover is there any specific nesting designs such as sizes and heights in the barn. lastly w/c breed of chicken you're raising? is the popular layers such as leghorns suitable for this technique?
thank you very much.
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No.208
Subject: Re: heating&nesting reqr'mnts
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: May 20, 03 - 8:57 AM
Email: nishki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: I buy day old chicks so I don't use any heating here. If you incubate yourself then need heater until they dry that usually done just keep inside the incubator for one day.
Nest can be any designs, just keep in mind that should not too comfortable for chicken. If they keep sitting then no more laying egg and hard to adjust that habit.
Now a day I mainly raise Kabir, anyway I should grub any kind available locally. This technique can be adopted any kind of chicken.
I even adopting this to my piggery.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.209
Subject: inquiry
Name: dyames
Date Posted: May 20, 03 - 12:08 AM
Email: dyames.kandary@eudoramail.com
Message: Dear Mr Nishiki,
I experienced the production of swine utilizing the bacterium lactobacillus. Yes, the performance of the pigs is not far from what is normally practiced... in-terms of breeding this technology is more advanced. I started my farming with one sow, then at five sows I still manage the farm by myself. Meaning the labor requirements was not such demanding.
However, my question is about the effeciency of feed conversion when using the technology of not giving pigs a bath. Since, I observed that the growth of the pig are not as robust as that of providing them with a lower body temperature. I'm refering to fattening of swine. Yes, i'm convinced that by utilizing this technology I didn't encountered problems on odor (Breeding). The only concern I have is on the feasibility of this technology interms of feed conversion.What kind of management is the most appropriate when dealing with fattening the swine for market?
Thank you very much!
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No.210
Subject: Re: inquiry
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: May 20, 03 - 9:00 AM
Email: nishki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message: Certainly, I see slower growth in fattening. With hot temperature pig tend to sleep most of the day. That situations are not much different from other piggary around.
This techniques are developed in Japan and we have one month very hot season.
Some are spraying very fine water mist to pigpen to lower temperature.
What I'm trying here is put water and feed other side of pigpen and let them walk.
It will not increase weight but grow muscle and firm meat.
Now a day, I concentrate breeding than fattening.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.211
Subject: egg production
Name: Jef A. Tongol
Date Posted: May 21, 03 - 5:02 AM
Email: atla84@hotmail.com
Website http://atla84@hotmail.com
Message: i, its' me again. i hope it's too much to ask an another question.
is your egg pruduction just self consumption? i,m planning to establish a small scale production as soon as i come home.
is free range system such as yours still viable or battery cages are needed for these operations.
again my sincere thank's to you
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No.212
Subject: Re: egg production
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: May 21, 03 - 8:22 AM
Email: nishki@ormocnet.net.ph
Message:
Main porpoise was just home consumption but I have about 50 egg every day, so selling neighbor sarisari store.
Basicaly layer are enclosed in 8m x 4m cage.
When I put them outside is just using thier labor for caltivate land.
No need costly battery cages.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.213
Subject: bedding
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Jun 1, 03 - 7:23 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki san. do you ever change the bedding of your pens when you put new piglets in the pen? I am using sawdust for the last 6 months and it is now black mixed with the pig dung. Won't any bad bacteria be left by the previous pigs?
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No.214
Subject: kabir chicken
Name: joe ortega
Date Posted: Jun 25, 03 - 1:41 AM
Email: jgo143@yahoo.com
Message: I'm interested to raise KABIR chickens. Where can we buy
the chicks for layer production? I'm from Talisay City, Cebu.
Please give me an address, if possible near my province or
in my province. Thank you very much.
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No.215
Subject: Re: kabir chicken
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Jun 26, 03 - 7:32 AM
Message: KABIR chicken are sold most of Agrivet stoor.
Try Pacifica or Breeders.
I myself looking for Sasso chichen and I found contact in Cebu.
I'm thiking contact them within a few weeks.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.216
Subject: lactobacilli
Name: Anthony Joseph G. Ascalon
Date Posted: Jul 2, 03 - 10:09 PM
Email: odgaston@hotmail.com
Message: Dear Mr. Nishiki,
Greetings! Hi, I'm Anthony Joseph Ascalon. Everybody calls me OD. I'm from Bacolod City, Negros Occidental and I stumble upon your website while I was looking for information about piggery. Because me and my wife are planning to put up a small scale piggery to compensate our income.
I'm very interested in your technology because I'm also an environmental freak. I've decided to try out your techniques in this venture, but I have several questions about producing lactobacilli.
1) In making lactobacilli, after boiling the soybeans and it's very soft and it's ready for blending, where should I blend the beans? Should I blend it manually in the pot where I boiled them or should I blend it in a blending machine? And for how long should I blend it?
2) After blending and transfering them in containers, should I fill the container up to the rim? Is that what you mean when you said "fill the container totally and seal it"?
3) After straining the blended material through a cheesecloth, what do I do with the solids after I strained them?
4) In multiplying the lactobacilli, wouldn't the milk turn into yogurt? If it does, would there be any liquid under the processed milk?
5) After multiplying the lactobacilli and before sprinkling it to the pigpen floor. Should I mix any liquid with the 300 cc of lactobacilli inside the 15-liter sprinkler(rigader)? If so how much Liquid and what kind of liquid? Or just put and spray the 300 cc in the rigader to the pigpen floor? Isn't it 300cc to small of an amount to put in a 15-liter sprinkler? Just a thought...
I was wondering...With the lactobacilli that I will get from the soybeans, can I make yogurt with it. If so, how? Because we got mother germ of yogurt from your beautiful country of Japan and my family loves it, especially my baby and my Dad. Is it the same germ that makes yogurt?
anyways that's it. I'm looking forward to your response and I will update you with my venture in this kind of technology. Thank you very much!!!
Always,
OD
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No.217
Subject: Re: lactobacilli
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Jul 8, 03 - 1:29 AM
Message: 1) In making lactobacilli, after boiling the soybeans and it's very soft and it's ready for blending, where should I blend the beans? Should I blend it manually in the pot where I boiled them or should I blend it in a blending machine? And for how long should I blend it?
If blend manually there will be more chance to other bacteria comes in.
Blend with blender machine until fine, about tow or three minuets.
2) After blending and transferring them in containers, should I fill the container up to the rim? Is that what you mean when you said "fill the container totally and seal it"?
Lacto bachilli can survive nonaerobic and high heat condition
so keep out from air which also contain other micro organism
and treat while hot.
3) After straining the blended material through a cheesecloth, what do I do with the solids after I strained them?
Give to pig that will be very nice nutrient with lacto bachilli.
4) In multiplying the lactobacilli, wouldn't the milk turn into yogurt? If it does, would there be any liquid under the processed milk?
They turned in to kind of yogurt then after that
it will separated to liquid and solid.
5) After multiplying the lactobacilli and before sprinkling it to the pigpen floor. Should I mix any liquid with the 300 cc of lactobacilli inside the 15-liter sprinkler(rigader)? If so how much Liquid and what kind of liquid? Or just put and spray the 300 cc in the rigader to the pigpen floor? Isn't it 300cc to small of an amount to put in a 15-liter sprinkler? Just a thought...
I was wondering...With the lactobacilli that I will get from the soybeans, can I make yogurt with it. If so, how? Because we got mother germ of yogurt from your beautiful country of Japan and my family loves it, especially my baby and my Dad. Is it the same germ that makes yogurt?
Just mix with water to make easy to sprinkle.
If floor is in good condition, lacto bachilli will multiply it self
very quickly.
There are at least few thousand kind of lacto bachilli and each one
has its characteristics.
Lacto bachilli you collect in your place
may not so tasty.
It will no harm to drink it but I have never try yet.
I have several kind of lachto bachilli good to drink.
What kind of mother germ of yogurt you have?
Please down load old log of "Forum Area" from top of "Periodical Reviews".
It become very long articles but very interesting and we already discussed most of your topics also.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.218
Subject: visit
Name: Anonymous
Date Posted: Jul 8, 03 - 1:02 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San, I will be in Ormoc with my brother next week. Can we visit you and your farm? It is in Baybay is it?
We have been using sawdust and IMO in out piggery since January this year. We can share some more info on this. Thanks.
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No.219
Subject: Re: visit
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Jul 8, 03 - 1:37 AM
Message: You will be welcomed.
Just tell me day and time.
My place is face to Ormoc - Baybay Road and about 4KM before Visca.
I'll E-mail you my address and cell phone No.
What is the IMO?
Kotaro Nisiki
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No.220
Subject: Re: visit
Name: Joy Young
Date Posted: Jul 8, 03 - 6:41 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message:
IMO means Indigenous Micro Organism. Indigenous means in your place or in your locality. Lactobacillus is majority of IMO about 80% I think. I use rice and brown sugar to culture and to make my IMO/Lacto. But lately my brother try using soy beans and cows milk to make the IMO/Lacto. I think It is better specially when applying. Hope to see you soon next week in Baybay. (by the way, do you know Councilor Vicvic Veloso of Baybay? He is a friend of mine.
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No.221
Subject: visit
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Jul 29, 03 - 9:38 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San, Hello.
Firstly thank you for letting us visit your place last week in Baybay.
Although we have been practicing natural farming in raising our pigs, it is seldom that you meet and visit other people who believe in the same principle of micro organism & actually practice it.
I envy your confidence and faith in what your doing. That is because we can't see the organisms.
Many times we doubt what we do. But our visit to your farm strenghtened our belief to go on with it.
We will start putting grass into our bedding which is presently pure sawdust with 10% dirt as of the moment. Rice straw is still not available as of the moment, but we will certainly use it as it has many good MO.
My advice to you is for you to control the feed. Your caretaker should measure it, 2 kls. per day only.
The other thing is that you might want to install a "drinker" using a bite nipple connected to a plastic barrel. pigs need water just as much as feed.
Again thank you. let me know if you should want to pure breeding gilts. The ones we bought is doing very well.
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No.222
Subject: Re: visit
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 2, 03 - 12:21 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Thank you for visiting my small firm.
Now a day, I'm having many visitors from other sources like LSU(Leyte State University) they included my place for some training course.
But you are the First one who actually visited through this "Forum Area".
Many people on this Forum saying they wanted to come but none materiarized.
One pig pen, you saw many left over of feed, that pig which I just bought from LSU was sick and my new caretaker doesn?ft know anything about pig.
Thanks you mentioned.
The way I cure that pig is just let her free to grass area and let her find own herbal medicine. Now she is all right.
I should train my caretaker. Problem is I don?ft speak Visaya.
I'm thinking about bite nipple for long time but I should think more seriously.
I like to know the contact address of feed miller you mentioned.
I need special feed for saws.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.223
Subject: Re: Re: visit
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 4, 03 - 3:05 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: 4Good Afternoon Nishiki San,
Yes, you are getting famous. I would like to encourage other forum area users to visit the farm. it is really different to read or study something versus actually seeing with your own eyes.
When one pig is sick in your farm, that is a very dangerous moment for all the other pigs. Because the risk of spreading the sickness is there. Your idea of letting the pig walk around in the grass area is good. In fact I did that also and it seemed to work. Until I realized that the pig was also spreading the disease where it was going!!! My sick pig went to the other pens, smell each others nose, and next i know my other pigs also got sick. that cost me much in medicines.
So be careful when doing that although i agree its a good way. another way i found out in treating sick pig who stop eating is by giving it baby pig food, meaning starter feeds. I think this works because they remember when they were still small with the mother, and feel safe. starter feeds seems to be sweeter or smell better. (I think!)
The other thing that all pig raisers should be conscious about is biosecurity. If you read the manual, you realize that it is impossible and not practical for small raisers like us to follow. But many suggestion are actually easy to do and cost nothing except some time and effort.
For example, donot let your cartaker go into pen of sick pig, then go inside other pens of healthy pigs. in fact if your cartaker live outside your house then he is probably bringing in the viruses. does he have pig in his house? oh no! does his nieghbor have pigs? did he go to market? backyard or small raiser of pigs do not vaccinate and thier pigs become sick they will butcher it and still sell it in market. in fact in my farm my caretaker who live inside my farm not allowed to bring any pig even meat inside my farm and they are not allowed to buy and eat pork!
All people who come into your farm are suspect carriers of disease. maybe just a simple footbath will do, in my farm everybody coming in and out must spray medicine on the shoes or slippers. important thing we must be conscious how sickness can be spread by carelessness.
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No.224
Subject: feed supplier tel. number
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 4, 03 - 3:18 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: by the way Nishiki San,
If your caretaker throw into the ground 2kls of feeds thats like throwing P20-30.00 per day! multiply that with number of pigs you have and by 30days a month, etc... In your case that could be P10,000./month more or less!!!
Besides your pigs will be healthier, not too fat which by the way is bad for pregnant pigs. It should only be 2kls/day.
My feed supplier is Jun-jun & Selpha Trinidad, of Superior Feedmills, with tel. (032) 424 8447, fax 424 8448.
There prices are as follows: Starter: p640; Grower: p600; Finisher: p585; Breeder(Gistating): p580; Lactating: p625;
if your are buying the cheaper feeds as you mention then you might as well buy this because its about the same price as cheap feeds but its better. Selpha Trinidad, the wife study animal nutrition in Texas. she breeds and sells fatteners at p1650 each (F2).
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No.225
Subject: Re: feed supplier tel. number
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 6, 03 - 11:07 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Regarding visitor to piggery, please refer to Message No.22.
Of course fewer chance to contact pathogen is better but our system have more endurance against pathogen.
I sent Fax to Superior Feedmills for inquiries
Thank you very much for your information.
Kotaro Nishiki
To get message No. Please down load old "Forum Area" log from top of "Periodical?@Reviews"
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No.226
Subject: Re: Re: feed supplier tel. number
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 7, 03 - 12:10 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San,
yes,it is good to have balance of bacteria in your farm, but i think no balance can prevent hog cholera from hitting your pigs. so i think better to just be careful. it is a kind of desease that can hit all your pigs.
maybe thats why in the seminar on natural farming i attend they say better we spray IMO every 7 days. that is to strenghten the good bacteria. but i find it too much to do that!
anyway to safeguard my investment since i have many pigs i vaccinate for hog cholera, deworm and next time am thinking to vaccinate for resperatory diseases. many my pigs coughing from the amonia smell caused by too much urine which sometimes happens.
aside from that i don't give iron or other vitamins or antibiotics.
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No.227
Subject: Re: Re: Re: floor condition
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 8, 03 - 9:56 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: To keep floor in good condition is more important than spray IMO.
If condition is good, good micro organism grow it self on the floor.
If condition is bad, your IMO sprayed going to die down very quick.
Have you tried cultivate floor to make more contact with air.
It will dry floor physically and activate aerobic bacteria.
Key is always less than 60% moisture so put new materials.
But when you put new materials, it will have more smell until fermentation process start. Best material in this case is rice husk (dako tahop).
If you could get rice husk, dig deep hole in the pig pen and fill with rice husk.
This is to make drainage pipe. Worth to try.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.228
Subject: wet floor solution
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 10, 03 - 5:47 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: yes, too wet is always bad and give off too much amonia smell which cause coughing.
rice husk is not yet in season here so that is out. maybe napier grass will do, must try that tomorrow!
I have done about everything to make bedding dry. I even took off shade which was blocking some air. and every 2-3 days i let my caretaker dig and mix the bedding which is something i want to avoid because it becomes labor extensive.
I don't want to admit it but i think i have too many pigs in one pen. the wet is coming from the urine. anyway i will try your drainage pipe idea.
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No.229
Subject: Re: wet floor solution
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 11, 03 - 11:10 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: In Japan we use underground drainage system with rice husk, mainly for too wet rice field. That works fine and last few years.
How many pig in one pen and how big is your pen?
Our 8mx4m pen you saw keep maximum 30 fatteners, usually 15-18 head.
Is your sow dust floor still have feeling of sow dust? I mean not yet fermented well?
If fermentation process going then it should be a form of soil and there should be am??onia eating bacteria.
You can make or enhance ammonia eating bacteria.
That is for laboratory work but here is easy way .(I don't try yet)
Collect part of floor soil which contain urine but not smell much(assuming presence of ammonia eating bacteria) then mix with rice bran, adding water and 10% urine to make 60% moisture. Pile it and it become over 35 Celsius, mix well(add air) and add another same content rice bran to multiply and mix again. if become 35 to 40 Celsius again then spray to pig pen floor.
But there is catch, floor better be under 60% moisture! This is aerobic bacteria and strong.
There are nonaeorbic ammonia eating bacteria but I don't know how to make.
EM said they have. I think they add this primitive bacteria separately.
That why many people tried to copy EM but can not make same thing.
EM have nonaerobic ammonia eating bacteria but not so strong.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.230
Subject: amonia eating bacteria
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 22, 03 - 11:50 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San, this is very interesting.
Can you explain this to me again?
----------------------------------------------------
No231
Subject: lacto/IMO
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Jul 31, 03 - 1:14 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San,
When we got back from our trip to your farm last week, by brother made some more lacto just as you did. We just have a problem on fresh milk supply. So we now looking for other sources.
Also, I decided to make some more IMO using rice and brown sugar, because as you mentioned that lacto is just one of the micro Organism, so I think that making IMO will be more complete to use in the farm.
I also noticed that pig dung has no smell when placed in sawdust or mixed compost as in your farm. so i think that the material you use for the floor of the piggery is more important than putting lacto or IMO.
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No.232
Subject: Re: lacto/IMO
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 2, 03 - 3:39 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Milk need not be true fresh, it is OK with fresh milk sold in super market which they call fresh but trueth is long life milk.
You are right.
More materials the better because it grows more kind of micro organisms.
I'm worried most people tend to think, lacto bachilli is kind of medicine
and if sprayed it will solve everything.
Lacto bachilli help other micro organism so without other micro organism, lacto bachilli means nothing.
We should understand whole process of fermentation.
I will write about that process later, but I can not promise when because it will be a big articles.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.233
Subject: Artificial Insimination
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 7, 03 - 12:21 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San,
I am now very busy with breeding my new gilts. I am using AI or artificial insimination on most of them, but a few will be mated with my boar.
You might want to consider using AI. its easy to learn & do. you can get the semen here in Cebu but its expensive, P1,600 for two shots (2 bottles) with guarantee of free second AI (another 2 bottles) if the pig does not get pregnant the 1st time.
my new supplier for semen is Jaltas in Bacolod where it is only p800 for two bottles but no free second AI meaning no guarantee. they only guarantee that the semen they send you is fertile. you will also have problem of sending to Baybay from Bacolod.
The advantages of AI is that you will have better quality "boar" and not the backyard boar where you are not really sure of its origin. the boars they use for AI is 100% purebreed.
The Cebu suppliers might even go to your farm to instruct you or your caretaker on how to AI for your 1st time.
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No.234
Subject: Re: Artificial Insimination
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 8, 03 - 9:57 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: We have AI system here. System here is just like other Botakal.
If you have piglet then give them one piglet back. So guaranteed.
I don't try AI yet. As a hobby farmer I feel AI is too extreme for me.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.235
Subject: Extreme Artificial Insimination!
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 10, 03 - 6:02 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: well i did find the idea of AI extreme before. but since my farm is experimental in preparation for a big commercial piggery which we plan to do, i decided that we have to try and learn AI.
Actually it was not as extreme and was "painless" even during the first time we did it.
AI became the best option because i found out that my sows were already the "backyard" type meaning don't know the genes or roots. The piglets of my first sow was small and grow slow. All piglets i buy no matter how big they were during weaning never come up to expected growth in 150 days. all were under weight. so using AI allowed me to insure that at least the boar was pure blood and improve the offspring. all boars you can hire in the barangay are also of mixed blood already.
Aside from that it was the time i got hit with hog cholera. and i became strict with "biosecurity". bringing in a boar would be a disaster for me as it has been to many backyard pigs and i don't know what disease it has pickup.
anyway since your pigs is a hobby for you, the main thing is you enjoy from it. but maybe it would also be a nice experience to try AI once.
to date i have AI 8 of my gilts/sows. and have natural breed with my boar 1 gilt. i expect to mate another gilt with my boar next week. so far things have been going good for me. and i am excited to find out how the AI and my boar will do, that's still 4 months of waiting!
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No.236
Subject: Re: Extreme Artificial Insimination!
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 11, 03 - 11:12 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: "painless"? I want give little pleasure. (just joking)
If my PIC become sow then I will try. Take time also.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.237
Subject: piggery bedding
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 14, 03 - 6:54 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: my pigs have about 16 sqft. or 1.5 sqm. each. the pen is 10x20 ft for 10-12 pigs. the sawdust floor is slightly compacted because of the pigs weight. sometimes it is "fluffy" becuase the pigs dig with their noses which is what we want. but they don't do that when the floor is too dry or when it is "old" having plenty manure mixed into it already.
the wet floor usually is in the area where they always urinate, it becomes muddy so water will not drain properly. what i do is add sawdust or turn it over to keep it dry. I can't make it 60% moist because it needs plenty of water which i don't have now but will soon have in about a weeks time.
i think if i make the pen bigger -20x20 feet and put 20-24 pigs it would be better because they will have a bigger center area. will try next batch of pigs.
i also put plenty of napier grass starting the other day. but i will have to put more because they eat it all in one day! it is not very good for them to eat too much of the grass because they might eat less of the feeds which is more complete in minerals and vitamins. anyway, we are in the experiment mode so will just observe. in the meantime, i have plenty napier grass which i planted 6 months ago. I will also put rice hull as soon as it is available. thanks for the tip.
it would be interesting to experiment and study the drainage system you mentioned. thanks again
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No.238
Subject: Re: piggery bedding
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 17, 03 - 10:52 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Pig dig floor means good floor condition. Even many manure, if fermented well, pig eat well also.
If you have dry area, you can mix with wet area.
It is no harm to give many napier grass, they eat many grass means that is what they need.
No commercial feed have complete nutrient. Pig knows better than human.
It might delay on gaining weight but make healthy pig.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.239
Subject: pig feed/growth
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 18, 03 - 12:03 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: yes, the perfect situation is to have good floor condition so that pig do work for you.
fortunately or unfortunately i have to consider the number of days the pig grows to harvest time because i am in the business of raising pigs. i have to balance the well being of the pig with that of my needs. I have tried to give fermented feed which i make, mixture of ricebran, green vegetables & other high protien leaf. the results were disaster! the pigs grow very slowly, up to one month more before gaining market wieght!
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No.240
Subject: Re: pig feed/growth
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 20, 03 - 11:24 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: You can use those leaf and fermented food as additive to your regular feed.
Just give after feed.
I don't think any commercial feed have enough vitamin and minerals, most of piggery owner give vitamin and minerals as additive to their pigs.
In our case, pig eat soil as minerals and green grass as vitamins.
Especially fermented food contain many kind of amino acid, growth hormone and thing we don't know yet but we know that is essential for growth.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.241
Subject: natural feeds
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 21, 03 - 3:30 PM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: yes,you are right Nishiki San, the "greens" actually are good and contain many vitamins.
Todays pigs are "genitically manufactured", and the feeds are also tailor fit for this pigs. If our feed is lacking one or two items, or the amount of protien or energy given to the pig is lacking, they will grow more slowly. Even if they are healthier.
When i made the fermented "green" feeds, my pigs were healthy. but they grow very slowly. It seems to me that natural farming today are still for small farmers. once you go commercial, meaning have 200 sows for example, natural farming becomes a problem to implement. we have to think of new ideas how to use it in big commercial operations.
The fermented feeds for example that i made, only had about 12% crude protien when the pigs need at least 16%. thats the reason they grow slowly. i had to feed my pigs another month for them to reach 85kls.which is ideal. (i had my feeds tested at the dept. of agri). you have to bear in mind that % of minerals and vitamins are measured from dry matter, meaning the leafs have to be dried first. i am now planting 'Flemengia" which has high crude protien.
my first harvest will be by end of this year yet.
if i am successful in using flemengia as a green feed, the next problem is to feed many pigs 200 or even 1000 heads with fermented feeds. fermented feeds is heavy because it is "wet" and have to be served one by one. i cannot put the fermented feeds in a feeder for continues feeding i will have to do it every meal time and that will require many labor which is expensive and troublesome.
the greens i used in my fermented "green" feeds were camote tops, kangkong, ipil-ipil and rice or corn bran. better to add camongay. but still it did not reach expectation.
for crude protien to be complete it needs 8 kinds of amino acids. if lacking then it will not mix well.
anyway, i will keep you informed on my experiment.
bear in mind that i am studying for big commercial operation and not for backyard or hobby raising.
there is a big difference and many different problems come up when you start adding many pigs!!!
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No.242
Subject: Re: natural feeds
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 25, 03 - 1:37 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Many of organic farming need more labor, so they sell higher price than ordinary product in most of the country.
In Japan, animals are slaughtered only at government control slaughterhouse?@(we can not make Lechon!),?@and they put grade of meat, good meat get higher price so many farmers venture in to raise even one more month.
I seldom sell fattener but when sold price is same as others, but in Baybay town retailer express that meat is from us to attract consumer.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.243
Subject: meat quality
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 25, 03 - 8:14 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: yes, you are right Nishiki san. with organic hog raising, the meat quality should be better. and we have actually seen the meat quality. unfortunately we have not really been into meat selling. I mean we sell our hogs to a big commercial meat processor.
studies show that meat from hogs organically grown last longer and stays fresh longer.
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No.244
Subject: aborted pregnancy
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 22, 03 - 10:24 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: Nishiki San,
have you experience your sow abort pregnancy?
It has happened to me twice already, the second time just the other day, a sow on its 2nd pregnancy. The first time was with my new gilt. Its too bad because we counted 17 fetus!
I am trying to pinpoint the reasons for this and trying to do it as intellegently as possible.
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No.245
Subject: Re: aborted pregnancy
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 25, 03 - 1:38 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: My sow had a miscarriage few month before, the one you saw, very fat and long nail.
That was our mistake. We usually don't mind other piglet sneak in to other sow. But that time piglet start suckle, We separate immediately but was too late.
May be hormone balance changed and aborted. Botakal advice me to cull.
Some time Botakal say "melted ??" in early pregnancy.
Kotaro nishiki?@
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No.246
Subject: right weight for pregnancy
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 25, 03 - 8:21 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: i mentionen to you when we were there about your very fat sow! it is called "embryonic" -something. i forgot the exact name for it.
actually there is "mummyfication" thats why they say "melt".
that is why it is best to maintain sows at proper weight before pregnancy or at all times better.
thats why they practice feeding less the first month of pregnancy.
however, if you sow is thin then you should feed it more instead. also the last three weeks of pregnancy, you should feed the right amount, even a little more to insure large sized piglets.
the rigth amount of feeds for sows is about 2 kls. per day. as i said it depends if they are thin or fat. you should adjust accordingly. my new gilts were all very fat, so now i am giving them only 1 kl per day for 3 wks now, with supplement of vegetables during mid day. next week i increase it to 1.5 kls.
when they give birth, feeds should be non stop.
with this in mind, again you should start with a healthy pig with the rigth weight before mating.
it is hard to adjust durign pregnancy
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No.247
Subject: Re: right weight for pregnancy
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Aug 29, 03 - 11:33 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: According to your suggestion, I started weigh feed.
As you notice, I fed up to train my helper partly because of my fault, I don't speak Visaya. I don't put much attention to my piggarry as far as my system working and leave them raise their own way. I didn't like to put any more money to my piggary.
Now I decided to thing more organized. I bought white board and put instruction for each pen.
I changed feed also, cheapest feed actually terrible.
Things used to not available before become now available, like Breeder(feed for pregnant sow) and pure breed sow.
I have 2 PIC (mix with Buntoc), their performance are good.
Another 2 is I just selected from local. Performance was good for 4 following but now become no good partly because we keep feed them with Grower that was only available feed for adult pig here.
I bought 3 pure PIC piglet from Visca (pure but second generation) so I'm going to replace local one. But still take time.
I hope, by one year, my piggary become profitable. ???
Thank you very much for your productive suggestions. Now I have a courage to put energy to my piggary.
This is the things what I want to happen in this Forum.
Thank you again.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.248
Subject: learn by sharing
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 30, 03 - 1:04 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: I am glad you are taking your piggery a little bit more seriously. Don't you agree that part of the enjoyment is when you succed in what you are doing?
I have talked with many people and have visited natural farms even in Davao. I am glad that many people which includes you have shared information on thier experiences. That is why I am also sharing what I have learned.
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No.249
Subject: learn by sharing
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 30, 03 - 1:09 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: I am glad you are taking your piggery a little bit more seriously. Don't you agree that part of the enjoyment is when you succed in what you are doing?
I have talked with many people and have visited natural farms even in Davao. I am glad that many people which includes you have shared information on thier experiences. That is why I am also sharing what I have learned.
What you are doing is right in organizing your caretaker and piggery. I also have problem with my caretaker because they did not finish elementary school, and I have to explain and explain again and again instructions.
Yes it helps when you write things down. In fact I have record everyday how much feed I give to my pigs.
Making the records will help you learn more intellegently or scientifically because you have data you can use. And your caretaker can also see what he is doing.
Although after many months it will be easy to do things without writing them down anymore. But doing it at the start is part of the learning process just like when we were children. remember?
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No.250
Subject: feed to weight ratio / genetics
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Aug 30, 03 - 1:50 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: The most important lesson I learned is that raising pigs is all about "feed to weight ratio". Meaning the amount of feeds you give the pig and how much weight they gain from eating it. When the pig eats 2 kls. per day and only gain 200 grams, as compared to a pig that gains 500 gms. then you know which one is better.
And the "pure" or F1 hibreeds coming from PIC or CEFN for example are always better than the pigs from the barangay. This breeds always have superior genetics so that they grow faster and have less fat even if they eat the whole day. They just grow but not get fat!
That is because all the pigs now available are genetically improved pigs. I remember when I was small and all I saw were black pigs?! Now they are all white!
As much as we would like to believe that natural farming is best, still a big part of it still comes from genetics because this pigs have been improved already.
For that reason alone, we cannot take quality of feeds also for granted. However, if you have a pig with questionable parentage, meaning from the barangay, it might not be practical for you to give the best & most expensive feeds because this would be useless as the pig will not grow as much. This is where the cheap feeds come in.
At the moment I am using commercial feeds and giving greens as supplement during noon time.
At least I have found a local feed supplier which is very much cheper than Bmeg or Robina.
I am happy with the new feeds supplier (the one I gave you). If you want cheap feeds then you might as well buy from them, its cheap but at least I am sure of thier quality. Also they mix weekly, meaning feeds are fresh, that is important.
The PIC 2nd gen. pigs you buy from visca is better than buying from the barangay. No matter how big the pig you buy, it still does not mean it is better. Even if it eats plenty. As mentioned, remember feed to weight ratio. Pig might be big but how long it take for it to grow? Maybe its big but take long time to grow, so its children will also be like her, slow to grow. Then the barangay pigs are also more fat, it might be big but is very fat, and your buyer will complain and price will go down.
So size alone is not an indicator to good genes.
So it is better to start with good genes or the higher quality pig. The higher up the ladder are its breed the better. You cannot go wrong.
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No.251
Subject: Re: feed to weight ratio / genetics
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Sep 10, 03 - 8:22 AM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Yes. You are right.
But we shouldn't forget, at the end of pursuing "Feed to weight ratio" there is pig industry now, with using lot of medicine like anti biotics which may harm human.
Of course I know you grow organically and you don't use anti biotics.
Main reason why I have piggary here is, I want against that current of piggary industry now.
I want to eat what I want, even if It may not so profitable.
That is why I called myself "Hobby farmer".
Solution will be some where in between.
Genetically improved pig like PIC might be a solution also.
Do you remember the taste of that black pig ?
That is not only a nostalgia.
Recently I had a chance to eat that black pig and shocked.
That was a really tasty!!
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.252
Subject: Taste
Name: J. Young
Date Posted: Sep 10, 03 - 10:31 AM
Email: joyoung@skyinet.net
Message: yes, that black pig in my grandmothers place in the province was tasty.
if you feed all organic or green feeds to the pig, it will have less fat and will be like wild pig!
But genetics is still important. Coupled with the way you raise and feed them = perfect tasty pig!
The purebreeds or hi-breeds will still grow faster with less fat than the barangay pigs. It will have more meat in bigger portions.
My goal will be to mix my own "green feeds" using my own plants mixed with rice bran and IMO.
Our mayor here wants me to raise wild pigs! I have been thinking about it but with the problems I still have to solve with my regular pigs?
By the way, I just harvested my hi-breed pigs last week, they have grown to 85-99 kls. in less than 160 days old! And the market is fighting over it because of the meat quality with less fat.
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No.253
Subject: Re: Taste
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Sep 11, 03 - 11:40 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: Congratulations. 85-99 kls in 160 day is very fast growth rate consider with the climate here.
Most of the country, they aim 100 kls in 6 month. So your pig grow faster even with international standard.
Piggary around my place, usually 80 kls in 6 month.
My barangay pig grow more slow but taste nice.
Kotaro Nishiki
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No.254
Subject: Process of Fermentation
Name: Kotaro Nishiki
Date Posted: Nov 13, 03 - 10:25 PM
Email: nishiki@ormocnet.net.ph
Website http://www2.mozcom.com/~nishiki
Message: I add article "Process of Fermentation" at under the photo of "agricultural Technology" page.
Process are not so simple, but if it is difficult to understand, that is because of my poor English.
I like to explain more in detail but I don't know the spelling of those technical terms!
Any way those process are happening every where in nature, even inside human's body. Without them no creature on the earth can survive.
Kotaro Nishiki
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